קטגוריות:
| >> Rogov's Tastes » Golan Heights - Jan. 2005 | |
The very first wines were released by the Golan Heights Winery in the early 1980's. If the truth be told, the wines shocked me because I thought that there had to be some "trick" here. Simply stated, I didn't believe that any Israeli winery could produce wines that excellent. It did not take long to discover that there were no tricks at all. What was involved were well-trained and excellent winemakers, state-of-the-art winemaking equipment, fully modern practices in the vineyards until then unknown in the region and overall senses of dedication and professionalism. The winery has never lost its cutting edge for producing many of the country's very best wines and since its first releases has remained consistently the best winery in the country. My most recent visit to the winery, including visitis to some of the newer vineyards under development, took place last Thursday, 13 January. In the company of senior winemaker Victor Shoenfeld and the entire winemaking staff of the winery, I then undertook a major tasting. My tasting notes follow. Perhaps even more impressive than many of the highly positive reviews is that in many cases of re-tastings I had no choice but to write that "my earlier tasting notes hold firm". Considering that this reflects a kind of quality consistency, this is one of the highest compliments one can pay any winemaker or winery. Best, Yarden, Viognier, 2003: The winery’s first Viognier, to be released only informally and only in very limited amounts. Fermented partly in new oak, partly in stainless steel, this medium-bodied rich and ripe wine shows spring flowers, vanilla and orange blossoms on a background of pineapple, nectarine and apricots, all complemented by lively acidity and a hint of pepper that comes in at the end. Some may consider the hint of bitterness that comes in from mid-palate a fault. I do not! Drink now–2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Viognier, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Round and ripe, aged partly in oak, partly in stainless steel, with the classic spicy, litchi and lime aromas and flvors of the variety, those set off nicely by hints of coconut, a gentle spiciness and just the right amount of acidity to add liveliness and balance. Harmonious, long, complex and all in all an all an enchanting wine. Drink from release – 2007. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005)
Yarden, Chardonnay, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full bodied, fresh, vibrant nd complex with an array of pear, fig, citrus, honey and melon aromas and flavors that come together nicely with toasty oak and hints of spices. Drink from release-2009. Score 90. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2002: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: Deep golden straw in color, this single-vineyard, full-bodied and elegant white was made from organically raised grapes. The wine shows ripe and complex flavors of pears, tropical fruits, hazelnuts and spices, those opening on the palate to reveal flinty and floral overtones along with generous but well integrated oak and a long and creamy finish. Drink now–2009. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2003 (AdvanceTasting): A rich and elegant wine with ripe pear, honeysuckle and melon flvors all coming together beautifully with minerals,nutmeg and hazelnut hints on the long finish. Drink from release – 2010. Score 91.K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2002: My former tasting note holds firmly: Full-bodied, concentrated and complex, the wine was fermented in French oak barriques and then allowed to age sur lie for seven months. It shows layer after layer of fruits, those including orange, grapefruit, ripe pears and passion fruit, along with tiers of hazelnuts, minerals, vanilla and smoky, toasty oak. Rich, mouth-filling and long. Drink now–2009. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Rich, ripe, concentrated and complex with generous layers of fig, tangerines, summer fruits and hazelnuts. Generous but not at all imposing oak on the finish mkes it especially elegant as does a hint of butterscotch that comes in on the long finish. Best 2006-2011. Score 93.K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Pinot Noir Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2001: Ripe, smooth and harmonious, this medium-bodied wine was aged for 16 months partly in new French oak barriques and partly in barrels previously used to ferment Chardonnay. It shows cherry and raspberry fruits backed up nicely by lightly floral and spicy oak, and is now starting to to reveal hints of earth, leather and chocolate. Drink now–2008. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft, well-integrating tannins, a generous but not exaggerated sense of the wood in which the wine was aged and a tempting array of berry, cherry, sweet cedar and spicy aromas and flavors. Distinctly Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Dark black-cherry in color, this smooth, rich, concentrated and complex wine shows layer after layer of plum, black cherry, blackberry and spicy flavors, all wrapped nicely in spicy oak. Medium- to full-bodied, seamless, long and elegant. Best 2006-2010. Tentative Score 90-92. K .(Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but already showint itself as a tsty-fruyit-driven wine with complex flavors including toasted pine nuts and herbs, plums and black cherries. As this one develops look aswell for anise and wild berry aromas and flavors on a long mouthfilling finish. Best starting in 2007. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Sangiovese Gamla, Sangiovese, 2001: My earlier note holds firmly: Dark garnet toward purple, this medium-bodied red offers up generous but smooth and well-integrated tannins on a background of ripe plums, black cherries, currants and tobacco. Reflecting its 12 months in small oak barrels, the wine also shows nice hints of sweet oak and a charming tinge of coffee on the long finish. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Gamla, Sangiovese, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Surprising concentration considering the vintage.Dark, deep and rich with intense berry and black cherry fruits, smoky aromas and flavors. Medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins anda long finish. Drink from release-2007. Score 89. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Gamla, Sangiovese, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, with round tannins and tempting aromas and flavors of plums, blueberries and violets. Gentle tannins and a long ripe fruit finish. Drink from release-2008. Score 89-91. K. (Tasted 13 Jun 2005) Gamla, Sangiovese, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy but already showing excellent extraction, and tempting blackberry, raspberry and blackcherry aromas and flavors. Medium-bodiedwith soft tannins and a long, smooth and fruity finish. Best from release-2008. Tentative Score 88-90. K. (Tasted13 Jun 2005) Merlot Yarden, Merlot, 2001: My earlier note holds firmly: Garnet toward royal purple in color, this medium to full-bodied wine has soft, integrated tannins and a tempting array of black fruits, vanilla and spices on the first attack, these yielding nicely to almost sweet cassis and light Mediterranean herbs on the finish. Drink now–2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Merlot, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Deep ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft already well integrating tannins and generously spicy oak. No fear though as with time in the glass even at this early stage of its development, the wine shows tempting sweet black plum and wild berry fruits on an appealing herbal and chocolate background. On the medium-long finish look as well for black cherries. Best from release -2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Merlot, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Smoth, polished and ripe, with an appealing array of aromas and flavors including currants, cherries, herbs, vanilla and lightly smoky oak. With complexity and finesse anda long finish the wine will be at its best from release-2009. Tentative Score89-91. (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but showing the potential to be smooth and polished in a delicate and understatedwa. In addition to cherry, strawberry, and cassis aromas and flavorslook as well for spices,cedar, tar and light herbal notes here. Best 2007-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Syrah, 2001: Medium to full-bodied, with youthful firm tannins, this dark garnet wine already shows excellent balance and opens in the glass to reveal black cherry and plum fruits, together with appealing earthy, floral and licorice flavors that arise and then linger nicely on the finish. Best 2006-2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Syrah, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full bodied, with good concentration and packed with tannins but those soft and already integrating nicely with multiple layers of green berry, plums and hints of spices, chocolate and vanilla. Plenty of oak here but that will settle down in time and the wine will soften and show increased complexity with tobacco and floral overtones. The wine will be approachable on release but will be at its elegant best from 2006-2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Syrah, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Supple, with fresh and appealing sweet berry and vanilla flavors and with the added pleasures of aromas and flavors of peach pits, spring flowers and light earthiness. Look as well fo a hint of tar on the moderately long finish. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Syrah, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Not even a final blend yet but even now showing medium- to full-body and good balance. Aromas and flavors of with blackberry, currant, anise and cedar. Still tightly closed and needs time. Best starting in 2007. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Cabernet Sauvignon Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: This delicious full-bodied red has good balance between wood, tannins and fruits. Still young but already showing plum, wild berry and currant fruits, reflecting its 18 months in oak with a judicious hand and with appealing overlays of vanilla, cedar and violets. Drink now–2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy oak both of which yield nicely and reveal flavors and aromas of redcurrants and berries on first attack, those yielding to layers of sweet cedar, vanilla, leather and, on the long finish a hint of anise. Needs a bit of time but promises to be round, elegant and long. Best from 2006 and then look forward to cellaring, until about 2010-2012. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet red, showing an appealing balance between ripe soft tannins, spicy currant, anise and cedar wood, all leading to a long and complex finish. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Not a final blend at this stage but now young and vibrant,showing complex layers of cherries, earthy currants, tar and smoky oak. Plenty of tannins here butthose yielding nicely and leaving room for a hint of green olives on the finish. Best starting in 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2005) |
