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| >> Rogov's Tastes » Golan Heights and in the Upper and Lower Galilee-December 2007 | |
On Monday and Tuesday (17 and 18 December), I spent two long days on the Golan Heights and in the Upper and Lower Galilee, there in the good company of Oded Chai of Tel Chai College and his fried Hanan Shahaf visiting all-in-all 20 boutique and garagiste-sized wineries and at those tasting some 182 wines. Interestingly, not a few of those winemakers we visited have studied at Tel Chai. My thanks to Oded for arranging my itinerary and to both Oded and Hanan for their very pleasant company. More than that, my sincere thanks to each of the winemakers who greeted us so warmly and let me sample generously of their efforts. The tasting notes that follow are those from my first day's journey. More to follow, hopefully before I leave early tomorrow morning for another extended visit, this one primarily to two of the better mid-sized wineries in the Upper Galilee. Best Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from yet unblended wines from the Ben Zimra and Kidmat Tzvi vineyards. Still in embryonic form but already showing full-body, soft but mouth-coating tannins and traditional Cabernet aromas and flavors of blackberries and blackcurrants, those on a spicy background. As the wine develops look as well for hints of licorice and dark chocolate. Best starting in 2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, reflecting its 16 months in French oak with soft tannins and hints of spices. Blended with 10% of Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak-aged for 12 months, this garnet red, medium-bodied wine shows soft, well integrated tannins and an appealing array of currant, wild berry and floral aromas and flavors and finishes moderately long with hints of Oriental spices. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Stern, Shiraz, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and generous wild berry and purple plum fruits on a spicy and earthy background. Well focused. Drink from release-2009. Score 86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Stern, Cabernet Franc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal purple in color, full-bodied, with gripping tannins that need time to settle down but already showing good balance and structure. Opens to reveal earthy, almost loamy flavors with dense berry, spicy oak an toast flavors. Best starting in 2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Stern, Or, 2006: A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (40%, 35% and 25% respectively). Developed in French oak for 13 month, dark garnet in color, with still firm tannins but those integrating nicely and showing appealing red fruits, spices and a hint of tobacco on the finish. Drink from release-2009. Score 87. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Stern, Rotem, 2006 (Advance Tasting): The winery's second Assaf Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with soft almost plush tannins and showing generous currant and cherry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of spicy wood, eucalyptus and bitter-sweet chocolate. Best from release-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend but already showing dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, full-bodied, ripe and supple. A generous mouthful of blackberry and blackcurrant fruits with hints of sweet cedar and, towards the finish a note of cocoa powder. Drink from release-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Oak-aged for 8 months, dark purple in color, with still firm tannins, and showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. On the nose and palate currants, blackberries, vanilla, dusky herbs and a generously meaty overlay that rises on the long finish. Best 2009–2013. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with still gripping tannins and generous wood waiting to integrate but showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate black and red berries and blackcurrants supported nicely by spicy tobacco and hints of chocolate. Long and generous. Best 2009-2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Garnet towards deep purple, medium to full-bodied, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc was aged in partly French, partly American barriques for 12 months. Good balance between soft, mouth-coating tannins, vanilla-tinged spicy oak, and acidity. On the palate wild berries, red currants and a light but appealing mineral hint, all lingering nicely. Drink now–2010. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Shiraz, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from component parts, still in embryonic form but already showing broad an generous, with generous blackberry, currant and licorice flavors, those with overlays of tar and smoke. Finely tuned balance between wood, tannins and acidity, all leading to a super-long finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. Assaf, Shiraz, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, ripe, round, soft and generous with blackberry, licorice and mocha notes coming together with hints of smoke and pepper. What cannot help but fascinate is a distinct hint of apricot here. Long, generous and elegant. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Pinotage, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Made from intentionally early-harvested grapes and developing in used oak barrels. Dark garnet towards royal purple in color showing blackberry and plum fruits those supported by generous hints of toast and cedar wood. On the long smooth finish an appealing mineral note. Lively and fresh with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Assaf, Sauvignon Blanc, 2007: Developed for 3 months in Assaf, Sauvignon Blanc, 2006: Light straw in color, unoaked and showing fresh and concentrated flavors of grapefruit, lime and a near intense minerality. On the long finish hints of wet gravel, grass and jalapeno peppers. Simultaneously refreshing and complex. Drink now Score 90. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2007: Light, bright and lively, with a pears and passion fruit at its core, those opening to show grapefruit, floral and light mineral notes in the background. Unoaked, a fresh and thoroughly appealing wine finishing with an elegant note. Drink now. Score 89. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007)
Pelter, Semillon, 2007: Light, tasty and tangy, with green pineapple, grapefruit and white peach fruits supported nicely by spring flowers and a tantalizing light hint of honey. Long and elegant. Capable of some age. Drink now-2011. Score 91. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Semilon, 2003: Showing as nicely now as in its youth. Partly fermented in stainless steel, and partly in barriques for two months. Perhaps the very first truly successful local dry Semillon, with herbal and pepper aromas, and flavors of citrus, pears and green apples, all leading to a long and spicy finish. Drink now. Score 91. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Gewurztraminer, 2007: Medium-bodied, showing traditional Gewurztraminer aromas and flavors of rose petals, ginger, litchi and peppermint on first attack, those opening to show generous pineapple fruits, those going to dried apricots. Spicy, just barely off-dry and long, a generous and delightful mouthful. Score 90. Drink now-2009. Score 91. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Pinot Noir, T-Selection, 2006: Dark cherry red towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with a generous 14.5% alcohol content but don't let that you off because all is here in fine balance and with enviable structure. Ripe and distinctive in flavor, with blackberry, currant, raspberry and floral aromas and flavors supported by minerals, green tea and a hint of beef carpacciio all coming together beautifully with Asian spices. Firm in texture at first but opens to reveal a multi-layered and complex wine that calls to mind the better Pinot Noir wines of Pelter, Trio, 2006: A blend this year of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, showing gentle spicy oak and soft tannins that yield to show currant, red and black berries and cherries on a lightly earthy-mineral background. Long and mouth-filling. Drink now-2010. Score 91. (Tasted twice with consistent notes (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A big and polished wine, one that sits comfortably on the palate and opens to show a generous mouthful of cherry, raspberry, blueberry and sweet and peppery spices all of which come together beautifully and then linger long and comfortably on the palate. Destined for elegance. Drink from release-2011. Score 92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2006 (Advancel Tasting): Deep garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and reflecting its 14 months in oak with a gentle spicy touch. Supple and graceful, showing cherry, blueberry and pomegranate fruits all on a background of white pepper and a hint of star anise. Drink from release-2012. Score 93. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection,2006 (Adance Tasting): Ruby towards purple in color, full-bodied, with silky soft tannins and a gentle hand with the oak. Showing gorgeous plum, blackberry and floral aromas and flavors on a background of sweet spices and, coming in on the finish, a tempting hint of semi-sweet chocolate. Long and generous. Drink from release-2012. Score 92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Shiraz, T-Selection, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby, full-bodied but with such fine balance between tannins, oak, acidity and fruits that it seems to almost float on the palate. On first attack generous blackberry and currant fruits, those yielding comfortably to plum, licorice and spices, all of which carry on to a long and generous finish. Drink from release-2013. Score 92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with velvety tannins. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, black cherry, tar and spices, those coming together beautifully and opening on the long finish to show a hint of sweet chewing tobacco. Drink from release-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Pelter, Petit Verdot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): An exotic red, still showing muscular tannins and generous oak but opening to reveal cassis, pomegranate, cola, citrus and ginger aromas and flavors. A delicious, unique and expressive wine, probably destined for blending so no score. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nimrod, 2006: Oak-aged for 10 months, showing gentle layers of spicy wood and vanilla, this medium- to full-bodied, garnet colored wine shows near-sweet tannins integrating nicely and opening to reveal berry, currant and sweet herbs. A light medicinal aroma on pouring blows off quickly. Generous and moderately long. Drink now-2009. Score 88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Odem Mountain, Cabernet-Merlot, Alfasi, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Oak-aged for 24 months this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot shows fine balance between still-firm tannins and spicy wood, those yielding in the glass to reveal black fruits, sweet herbs and, on the long finish, hints of green olives and anise. Best 2008–2011. Score 91. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Opens with a bit of bottle-stink but that blows off quickly to revel a medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic wine with generous blackcurrant and purple plum fruits, those matched nicely by hints of mocha and vanilla. Ripe, round and moderately long. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir Snir, Cabernet Sauvingon, Nimrod, 2005: Dark ruby towards purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely with gently spicy wood. On the nose and palate red currants, wild berries and spices. Flawed by a too high level of volatile acidity. Drink up. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Nimrod, 2005: Light garnet in color, medium-bodied, an oak-aged blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Merlot showing red berries and cassis on a light background of minerals. A bit overly acidic on the palate. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nimrod, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark, but not fully clear royal-purple, aged in oak for one year, medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrating tannins and plum and blackberry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink up. Score 83. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Nimrod, 2004: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and spicy oak integrating nicely to reveal blackberry, currant and orange peel aromas and flavors. Somewhat one-dimensional but a good quaffer. Drink up. Score 85. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to ful-bodied, with near-sweet tannins, a round, soft and easy to drink wine with generous black fruits. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Ruby red, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and forward berry, black cherry and currant fruits. A pleasant but somewhat internationalized Merlot. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Snir, Cabenret Sauvignon-Merlot, Nimrod, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with somewhat chunky tannins, a pleasant little country-style wine with red and black berry, cherry and cassis fruits. A good quaffer. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese, 2006: A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Sangiovese, developed with oak chips. Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and showing appealing blackberry and black cherry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Soft and round. A good quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and showing primarily red fruits. Nothing complex here but an easy to drink quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's, Merlot, 2005: Medium-bodied, a simple but accessible wine. Soft and round with black and blueberry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: A dark purple blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and primarily blueberry aromas and flavors. An acceptable entry-level wine. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's, Merlot, Breisheit, 2005: Dark garnet towards purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and primarily berry and black cherry fruits. Lacks complexity but an acceptable entry-level wine. Drink now. Score 80. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's Cabernet Sauvignon, Breisheit, 2005: Showing remarkably different than at earlier tastings. Dark garnet, with near-sweet tannins, reflecting its 12 months in oak with spices and vanilla. On the nose and palate berries, black cherries and currants. Marred by a hint of sweetness that runs through. Drink now. Score 83. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Amram's Cabernet Sauvignon, Breisheit, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Blended with 7% Merlot and 3% Shiraz, this medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic wine shows forward blackberry, currant and cassis notes, those on a background of anise-flavored chocolate along with a hint of sweetness that may not be appreciated by all. Drink from release. Score 83. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na'aman Na'aman, Pink Floyd, 2007: Dark rose-petal pink with hints of orange, this light- to medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot shows appealing berry, cherry and light cassis notes, all with an appealing spicy background and good acidity to keep it lively. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na'aman, Pink Floyd, 2006: This simple but appealing rosé, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is light to medium-bodied and crisply dry, with strawberry, raspberry and cassis aromas and flavors. Drink now. Score 83 (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na’aman, Merlot, Ramim Ridge, 2005: Medium-bodied, with coarse tannins. Indeed deep purple in color, but with little charm beyond that, as medicinal and barnyard aromas and coarse tannins hide whatever fruits may be hiding here. Score 74. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na'aman, Deep Purple, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): An oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot (40%, 30%, 20% and 10% respectively). Dark royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied with still firm tannins needing time to integrate. Opens to reveal blackberry, purple plum and cassis fruits along with generous hints of saddle leather and earthy minerals. Drink from release-2010. Score 86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na'aman, Deep Purple, 2005: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in a traditional Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, King Crimson, 2006: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with still firm tannins starting to integrate with spicy wood. Showing an appealing array of currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those with hints of earthy minerals and spices Lingers nicely. Drink now-2010. Score 86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na’aman, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, King Crimson, 2005: A medium-bodied, softly tannic, oak-aged blend of 75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot, this wine shows spicy wood, cherry and red currant aromas and flavors, those with a light bitter herbal undertone. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins and a gentle hand with spicy oak. Opens with red plum and berry notes, those yielding to currant and orange peel, and goes on to a tannic finish with appealing herbal overtones. Potentially the best to date from the winery. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na’aman, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Blended with 8% of Merlot, dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with still-firm tannins and generous wood, but those integrating nicely. Showing black currant, blackberry and briar aromas and flavors with hints of roasted coffee in the background. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Na’aman, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins, showing an array of blackberry, huckleberry, currant, black licorice and Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Drink from release–2010. Tentative Score 85–87. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Ramot Naftali Ramot Naftali, Barbera, 2005: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, reflecting its 10 months in French oak with polished tannins and opening to reveal blackberries, minerals and a hint of licorice. Finishes round and with a light toasty oak character. Drink now. Score 88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Garnet towards deep purple, medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins yielding nicely. Richly aromatic and with fine balance between black cherry, currant and wild berry fruits, dusty herbs, and a hint of green olives. Well focused. Drink now–2010. Score 88. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2007) Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Full-bodied and firm, with generous spicy wood reflecting its 20 months in oak. Opens slowly on the palate to reveal fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. On first attack primarily red fruits, those yielding to blackcurrants and wild berries, all accompanied by overtones of Mediterranean herbs and licorice. Best to date from the winery. Score 90. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Ramot Naftali, Duet, 2006: Aged in oak for 10 months, this garnet red blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (65% and 35% respectively) shows good balance between soft tannins, spicy wood and fruits. Generous red currant and raspberry notes on first attack, those shifting comfortably to cassis, chocolate and Oriental spices. Drink now-2010. Score 88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with soft, round tannins. Oak-aged for 18 months, opening to show a tempting array of blackberry, raspberry and licorice notes all lingering nicely. A fruit-forward wine with great charm. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 17 Dec 2007) Three Vines/Formerly Ben-Barak Winery Three Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Dark royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy wood. Flavors and aromas of currant, blackberry and wild cherry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of herbs and vanilla. On the medium-long finish a hint of green olives. |
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