In early afternoon I strolled from my home to the headquarters/store of The Scottish Trading Company, there to meet with Shivi Drori, the winemaker of Gvaot Winery. Drori had been at the store for a Friday tasting of his wines and after that he and I retreated to the upstairs tasting room, there for tastings, re-tastings and barrel tastings of his wines.

Founded by Shivi Drori and Amnon Weiss on the settlement of Shiloh in the Shomron region, with vineyards at an altitude of 700–900 meters above sea level, this boutique winery released its first wines from the 2005 vintage. Production in 2005 was for 5,000 bottles and current production is about 12,000 bottles annually, those of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay grapes. The winery is currently releasing wines in three series, Gofna Reserve, Masada and Herodion.

Among the pleasures of the tasting were an open discussion of moral-political values and in that the acknowledgement that civilized people can disagree, even vehemently, while remaining civil and even warm and friendly. More important and more to the point was the pleasure of tasting wines of a winery that started off quite well indeed and is comfortably working its way up. Oh yes, lest we forget, good espresso coffee before our tasting. My tasting notes follow. My thanks to Shivi for setting up this special tasting and for his courtesies.

Best
Rogov

Gvaot, Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon, Gofna, 2007: This white wine, a blend of 78% Chardonnay and 22 Cabernet Ssauvignon (yes, that is Cabernet Sauvignon and not a typographical error), the Cabernet made in the blanc de noirs style. Light golden straw in color, crisply dry, medium-bodied, a white that in addition to peach and apple fruits shows notes of berries and even a hint of tannins. An oddball, but a pleasant enough oddball and most definitely meant for quite early drinking. Score – well, let's say 86. K (Tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Herodion, 2006: Dark ruby towards garnet, aged for 14 months primarily in used French barriques , showing medium-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins. Round, soft and rich with appealing red berry and cassis notes, those on a lightly spicy background. Long and generous. Drink now-2010. Score 88. K (Tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Herodion, 2006: Opens with a lightly funk, earthy aroma, that passing quicky and turning clean and deeply aromatic. Reflecting its development in barriques with full-body, firm tannins and generous spicy wood, those integrating nicely and showing appealing currant, blackberry, green olives and Mediterranean herbs. Best 2009-2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Merlot, Gofna Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing even better than at an earlier tasting. Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied with gently mouth-coating tannins. Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak-aged for 14 months, opens to reveal blueberry and black cherry fruits on a background of roasted chestuts and licorice. Long and generous. Drink from release-2010, perhaps longer. Score 89.K (Re-tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gofna Reserve, 2005: Generous spicy wood here after 24 months development in French oak but showing smooth and round. Almost inky-dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with concentrated black cherry and blackberry fruits. The tannins rise from mid-palate on and lead to a long and intense finish. Drink now-2010. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Cabernet Franc, Gofna Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend but already showing the potential to be the best yet from the winery. Notes of loam and freshly turned earth identify this immediately as Cabernet Franc, those matched nicely by plum, berry, spicy oak and toast flavors. Tanins here are dry and chewy but the balance and structure are fine, the wine showing great enthusiasm at this stage and waiting for its elements to come together. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Merlot, Gofna Reserve 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend, but showing medium- to full-bodied, opening with an enchanting sawdust and vanilla nose and then opening to show currant and cherry fruits on an earthy and spicy background. A distinctive personality that needs time to soften. As this develops look for blueberry and chocolate notes. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 2 May 2008)

Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard, Givat Har-El, Gofna Reserve, 2007 (Barrel): Dark, youthful royal purple in color, with notes of spicy and vanilla-rich wood Firm tannins here but showing smooth and creamy with currant, blueberry, floral and spicy aromas and flavors, all lingering nicely. Needs time to show its elegance. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 2 May 2008)