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>> Rogov's Tastes » Gvaot & Zion - June 2007

I had thought that my 2008 wine guide was finished and along with that my winery visits until after the 2007 harvest. The final draft is with the publisher; my editor and I are about done and the proof-readers are now doing the fine combing. Next step is page layout.

For better or for worse, until page layouts are completed, updates and additions can still be made and with wineries now opening (quite literally) at the rate of one per week, I find myself as busy as earlier. No complaints but lawsy, lawsy, how I could use an additional 4 - 6 hours daily.

Whatever, on Sunday, 10 June, the winemaker of one winery and the representative of another came to Tel Aviv so that I could meet with them that I could taste their wines. Two positive surprises awaited me, the first, the high quality and individual personality of the first efforts of the brand new Gvaot winery and the second that Zion winery, founded by the Shor family 160 years ago has decided that man cannot live on Kiddush wine (sacramental wine) alone and has begun to produce several series of wines that will compete nicely on the market with entry-level and everyday drinking wines of other wineries.

My thanks to Shivi Drori and Yossi Shor for taking their time to meet with me in Tel Aviv and to Dapnha Triwaks and her staff for setting up the tastings. Each of the wines was re-tasted blind today in my own tasting room.

Best
Rogov

 

Gvaot Winery

 

Established in the settlement of Shiloh, located in the Shomron region, by Shivi Drori and Amnon Weiss,, with vineyards at an altitude of 700-900 meters above sea level, this boutique winery released its first wines from the 2005 vintage. Production in 2005 was for 5,000 bottles and for 2006 7,500 bottles, those of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes. The winery is currently releasing wines in an upper-level Masada series and two mid-level series, Herodion and Gofna.

 

Masada
Masada, Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, with orange reflections. Reflecting 18 months in barriques with spicy oak and mouth-coating, near-sweet tannins in fine balance with minty, herb-scented cherry and berry flavors, those with overlays of milk-chocolate and mint. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a caressing finish. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Masada, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, firm and concentrated, opening with peppery cedar wood, that yielding comfortably to blackberry and spicy and earthyaromas and flavors. Needs time to soften but has a distinct personality and a long-lingering finish. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Herodion
Herodion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006
(Barrel Tasting): Made from grapes that had partly dried on the vines, cold-fermented before being transferred to oak barrels. Medium-bodied, with a vague hint of sweetness set off nicely by aromas and flavors of ripe berries and black cherries and, on the moderately-long finish a touch of eucalyptus. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Herodion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, reflecting sweet and spicy cedar wood from its 14 months development in French oak, the wood in good balance with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and fruits. Medium- to full-bodied, aromatic and showing deep currant, black cherry and dark red fruits. Finishes with a touch of heat but that will integrate nicely given time. Best starting in 2009. NIS 85. Score 88. K

 

Herodian, Red, 2005: Dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle oak integrating nicely this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot was aged in French oak for 12 months. Aromatic, round and soft, with appealing aromas and flavors of blackberry and purple plum fruits, those supported by hints of spice and chocolate. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 75. Score 87. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Gofna
Gofna, Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Not a typographic error – truly a blend of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (75% and 25% respectively, the Cabernet with minimal skin contact yielding a rather unique blanc de noirs. Full-bodied, with a texture that of cream and glycerin, showing a surprising but appealing array of citrus, pear and wild berry fruits. A complex and "interesting" wine but not one for more than short-term cellaring. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)


Zion Winery

 

Founded in the old city of Jerusalem in 1848 by the Shor family, until recently this winery produced primarily wines for sacramental purposes. With the 9th generation of the family involved in the business, starting three years ago the winery began to release dry wines and from the 2005 vintage made the leap into wines that would compete, largely in supermarkets, with wines that were of acceptable quality and good value for money. Now located in Mishor Adumim, not far from Jerusalem the winery produces some 1,500,000 bottles annually of which 100,000-150,000 are of interest to more serious wine consumers, those in three series, Armon, Erez and Tidhar. The winery relies largely on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carignan, Petite Sirah and Emerald Riesling grapes.


Armon
Armon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Developing now in oak barriques, a full-bodied, generously tannic and cedar-rich wine, those elements in fine balance with natural acidity and fruits. Dark garnet, opening to show currant, blackberry and plum fruits on a background of spices and earthy minerals. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Erez
Erez, Petite Syrah-Merlot, 2005: Petite Sirah and Merlot in equal parts. Ruby to garnet, clean and fresh, with soft tannins, a hint of spicy wood and generous red fruits. Not complex but easy to drink. Drink now. Score 83. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Tidhar
Tidhar, Carignan-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Light ruby in color, lightly oaked, light- to medium-bodied, with soft tannins. Opens with light minty aromas and flavors and goes on to raspberry and plums. Fresh and refreshing, a good quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)

 

Tidhar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: A garnet red, lightly oaked, medium-bodied and softly tannic blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah. Black and red berries, ripe purple plums and light spices run through making this an easy to drink quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 10 Jun 2007)