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>> Rogov's Tastes » Har Odem & Kadita- may 2005


Tuesday and Wednesday this week were spent on the Golan and in the Upper Galilee. As always, I return from there with a refreshed sense of beauty for with so many areas yet unspoiled and often exquisite views, with wild animals still in abundance, and with water so fresh in many places that one can still drink from the streams, how can one not feel refreshed?

No less important, I visited several wineries during my visit, two of which are most definitely of interest. At both I was greeted warmly and openly by genuinely warm and open people. Better yet, both of these wineries seem most assuredly headed in good directions. Following are my tasting notes from the two visits.

Best,
Rogov

 

Har Odem (Odem Mountain)

Founded by Michael Elfasi and his sons Adam and Yishay in 2003 and situated in a newly constructed and thoroughly modern facility on Moshav Odem in the northern Golan Heights, the winery relies on grapes grown in its own vineyards as well as from other vineyards on the Golan and in the Upper Galilee. Currently producing wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the winery is considering future releases of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Production for 2003 was 6,500 bottles and for 2004, about 24,000. Immediate plans are to grow to about 30,000 bottles and then hold before a decision is made to expand to 70,000-100,000 bottles annually. Wines are currently being produced in a Reserve series, mid-range Nimrod and Odem Mountain series and Volcanic, wines made entirely with grapes from organic vineyards.


Odem Mountain, Reserve, Merlot, 2003: Dark almost impenetrable garnet towards purple, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting firm tannins and smoky oak from its 15 months in new and used oak barriques. Look for aromas and flavors of currants, plums and blueberries, those with hints of tobacco and vanilla on the finish. Drink now-2007. Score 87. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with generous tannins and wood influence now starting to integrate. Needs time in the glass to open but when it does look for appealing black fruits, spices and chocolate leading to a long and mouthfilling finish. Drink now-2007. Score 87. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Volcanic, 2004: Made from organically raised grapes, fermented partly in stainless steel and then allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation in French oak barriques, this medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet colored wine shows primarily herbal aromas and flavors when first poured but then opens nicely in the glass to reveal currant and purple plum fruits. Drink now-2007. Score 86. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards black in color, full-bodied and already reflecting soft tannins and moderate wood influence. Traditional Cabernet Sauvignon aromas and flavors of blackcurrants and blackberries come together with hints of lead-pencil and sweet cedar. Best from 2007-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Deep royal purple in color, medium-bodied and reflecting its 6 months in oak with an overlay of spices and vanilla. Look for aromas and flavors of blackcurrants and blackberries on a background of citrus peel and chocolate. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Merlot, Reserve, 2004: (Barrel Tasting): Deep purple, with gentle spices and hints of vanilla from the oak and an appealing array of aromas and flavors that includes wild berries, black cherries, and chocolate. Long and mouthfilling. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards purple, medium-to full bodied, with firm tannins already integrating nicely and generous ripe plum, black cherry and berry fruits backed up nicely by hints of spices and vanilla. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 86-88.

Odem Mountain, Merlot, 2003: Medium-dark purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with well-integrating tannins and aromas and flavors of black cherries, berries and vanilla. Lacking backbone and somehow one dimensional. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Nimrod, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely, with flavors and aromas of black fruits along with hints of anise and chocolate. Round and generous. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Odem Mountain, Nimrod, 2003: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied with light tannins and a bit of excess acidity, this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot spent 6 months in oak. Opens nicely on the palate to reveal berry, plum and red currant fruits. A good quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 24 May 2005)

Kadita

Jonathan Goldman made wines at his home in Bikta Bekadita in the Upper Galilee for several years before he released his first commercial output of 600 bottles in 2001, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Grapes are currently drawn from the winery's own nearby vineyards and from vineyards at Kerem Ben Zimra. Production doubled in 2002 and again in 2003 with the release of 2,400 bottles. Production in 2004 was 3,000 bottles and anticipated future production is 22,000 bottles annually.

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful deep royal purple in color, full-bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely and concentrated black fruits, Mediterranean herbs, eucalyptus and hints of spicy cedar wood from the oak barrels. Long, concentrated and mouthfilling. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 25 May 2005)

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of grapes from two vineyards, one with volcanic soil, one with red soil, this still youthful deep royal purple wine shows full body, firm tannins promising to integrate nicely and a tempting array of blackcurrant and wild berry fruits, those on a long spicy, tobacco and chocolate finish. Best starting in 2007. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 25 May 2005)

Kadita, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied and aromatic, with firm but already well-integrating tannins and even at this early stage showing a tempting array of blueberry, raspberry and purple plum fruits, those on a background of chocolate and Mediterranean herbs. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 25 May 2005)

Kadita, Merlot, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Full bodied, concentrated and intense, with generous soft tannins coming well balanced by near-sweet and smoky oak. Look for aromas and flavors of black cherries, blackberries and cassis as well as for hints of mocha and cigar tobacco on the long finish. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 25 May 2005)

Kadita, Shiraz, 2002: Blended with 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in French oak for 20 months, this medium- to full-bodied wine shows firm but well-integrating tannins and an appealing array of plum, berry and cassis fruits all on a background of generous black pepper and light earthiness and herbaceousness. Drink now-2008. Score 89. (Tasted 25 May 2005)

May 2005