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>> Rogov's Tastes » Karmei Yosef - February 2007

 

On morning Monday, 19 February 2007 was partly devoted to a visit to the Karmei Yosef winery. Although most people continue to think of this as the Bravdo winery, that is at least technically correct as Bravdo is the name of the single series produced by the vineyard, the wines in that series consisting of annual releases of oak-aged Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines.

Founded in 2001 by Ben-Ami Bravdo and Oded Shosheyov, both professors of oenology at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the winery sits in the heart of a vineyard at Karmei Yosef on the western slopes of the Judean Mountains. The winery released 2,800 bottles of its first wine in 2001 and current production is about 26,000 bottles annually. Among the varieties under cultivation in the winery-owned vineyards are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Carignan, French Colombard, Emerald Riesling and Muscat of Alexandria grapes and one of the major goals of the winemakers is the encouragement in their wines of those aromas and flavors most traditionally associated with the wines they release.

My tasting notes follow. The wines from the 2005 and 2006 harvest were tasted at the winery. The 2004 wines were sampled on my return home in my own tasting room. My thanks for Professors Bravdo and Shosheyov for their courtesies and an interesting tasting.

Best
Rogov

Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Fermented partly on its lees in new French and American oak and partly in stainless steel. Deep golden, with a green tint and light cedar oak and bursting with layers of fig, apple, apricot, melon and light cedary oak. Rich and lively with mineral flavors that linger nicely on a fine-textured finish. Drink from release -2010. Tentative Score 90-91. (Tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2005: Now, as during its youth, a bright and generous wine, light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, with light hints of spice-tinted wood and concentrated layers of citrus, citrus peel, nectarine and melon fruits, all lingering very nicely on the finish. Elegant. Drink now-2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2004: Light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, crisply dry with hints of flinty minerals and spicy oak, showing concentrated but elegant aromas and flavors of citrus, citrus peel, fig, melon and green apples, those lingering nicely in a crisply mineral finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy and developing in French and American oak, already showing almost impenetrable dark purple in color and with gripping tannins, those in fine balance with spicy wood and opening to reveal a generous core of plums, blackberries, currants, and exotic spices, those yielding on the long finish to blueberries and mocha. Needs time. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2005 (Advance Tasting): After developing for 12 months in French and American oak, 20% of which was new, showing dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and dusty wood highlighting intense currant, blackberry, black cherry and mocha aromas and flavors, those with a long, generous and elegant finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2004: With the exception of a 1 year reduction in projected drinking windows, my earlier tasting note holds firmly: Oak-aged for 12 months, with 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, this medium-bodied red shows appealing smoky oak and moderately firm tannins well balanced with cassis, blueberry and black cherry fruits. On the long finish hints of anise, sweet cedar, sage and tobacco. Drink now–2010. Score 90. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep youthful purple in color, mdium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins showing fine balance between wood, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate a generous array of minty cherry, raspberry, cassis those with light spicy overtones adding depth. Enough fruit at this time that you might think the wine a bit sweet but give this one time to show its depth and elegance. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauignon, Bravdo, 2005 (Advance Tasting): As during barrel tastings, dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely and showing generous but well-proportioned blackberries, currants, lead pencil and sweet herbal aromas and flavors. Intense with the tannins and fruit rising on a long finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2007)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied with soft near-sweet tannins and spicy wood well balanced by generous blackcurrant, wild berry and black cherry fruits. Round, generous and long. Drink now-2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2007)