There are an increasing number of occasions on which winemakers of very small wineries ask me to taste their wines, wanting my opinion and feedback. I am always glad to taste wines, no matter how small the producer but there is a small problem in this – for I cannot as a critic be in a position of being an "advisor" to any commercial effort, no matter its size.

In some cases these people are producing quantities of wine too small to enter into either HaAretz or my book (the minimum production level being 3,500 bottles annually). It might be a good thing for a winery to get my feedback "off the record" if their wines show potential because that would give them direction for deciding either to put their wines on the market. That is not part of the critic's purview. Nor is it a good thing to give honest but negative feedback for that too could influence the winery's direction. If critics have any input to a winery at all it should be only in printed or otherwise published reviews. Truth is, not many startup winemakers are brave enough to face such reviews and even hope sometimes when they put their wines on the market that they will slip by the critic unnoticed.

When Avital Goldner of the still young Katamon Winery phoned me, I explained this to him and told him that I would be glad to taste his wines but on the condition that because of his small output (1,200-2,400 bottles annually, his winery being in his home), my reviews would appear on the forum and that whether the reviews were good, bad or indifferent. He agreed, we had a pleasant meeting at a Tel Aviv café on Wednesday and between yesterday and today the wines he brought me for sampling were part of my blind tastings. Those interested can contact Avital by telephone at 054 6332206.

My tasting notes follow.

Best
Rogov

Katamon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Garnet towards purple in color, a medium- to full-bodied blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, that aged in new French oak for 12 months and then in stainless steel for another year. Showing clean, fresh black- and blueberry notes along with hints of licorice and dark chocolate, and faulted only by a hint of unwanted volatile acidity. Drink now or in the next year or so. A good first effort. Score 85. K (Tasted 29 Jun 2007)

Katamon, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc now developing in American and French oak. Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, showing soft tannins integrating nicely and on the nose and palate plums, blackberries and vanilla, those supported by hints of spicy wood and Mediterranean herbs. Drink from release. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 29 Jun 2007)

Katamon, Blend, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (50%, 40% and 10% respectively), now developing in French oak barriques. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with smoky cedar wood. Generous berry, black cherry and currant fruits backed up by an appealing hint of bitter herbs on the moderately long finish. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 86-88. K. (Tasted 29 Jun 2007)

Katamon, Riesling, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A blend of equal parts of Johannisberg and Emerald Riesling grapes, oak aged for six months. Dry, showing basically floral, citrus and tropical fruits but minimal traits of either variety and without enough acidity to keep it lively. Destined for early drinking. Score 80. K (Tasted 28 Jun 2007)

Katamon, Semillon, 2005: A light golden, medium-bodied blend of 80% Semillon and 20% Chardonnay showing relatively high alcohol (14.5%), low acidity, generous herbal overlays on the palate and only skimpy aromas and flavors of tropical fruits. Score 76. (Tasted 28 Jun 2007)