This morning I made my way by train to Ashdod, there to be met by Meir Kfir and then on to a tastings and re-tastings of his various wines. Founded in 2003 by Kfir in the village of Gan Yavne in the southern Coastal Plain, this small winery originally known as Gefen Adderet changed its name in 2006 to Kfir. The winery draws Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes from the vineyards of Karmei Yosef, the Jerusalem Mountains and the Galilee, and is currently producing about 7,000 bottles annually.

One of the true rewards of the wine critic is following the development of a winery, especially when one sees improvement in the quality of the wines on an annual basis. Another is in meeting winemakers who, although they firmly believe in the quality of their wines have not developed egos that out-size those wines and who maintain the true pleasure not only of making but of sharing those wines. So, indeed is the case at Kfir. Some have commented that for a small winery, Kfir produces too many different wines and labels. In one sense I agree with that but in another I can easily understand Meir Kfir's desire (perhaps even need) to experiment, to continue being playful and to seek out the blends and the varieties that most suit him. All in all a lovely morning and a rewarding tasting with a lovely person.

My tasting notes follow, those in the order of the tasting.

Best
Rogov

Kfir, Viognier, Bar, 2005: Light golden straw in color, deeply aromatic with generous fresh acidity keeping it lively. Aromas and flavors of peaches, melon, citrus and freshly cut hay. Not representative of the variety but appealing and refreshing. Drink now.. Score 85. (Re-tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Galia, Bar, 2005: Call this deep pink and unusual blend of white Riesling and red Petite Sirah grapes (70% and 30% respectively) blush or call it rosé as you like. Light to medium-bodied, floral and with a combination of strawberry and cassis liqueur aromas and flavors, a pleasant quaffer, best served very well chilled. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, White Nights, Teva, 2005: An off-dry blend of 85% Gewurztraminer and 15% Riesling, showing mango, pineapple and citrus peel aromas and flavors. Light golden in color, medium-bodied and with good acidity to keep it lively and refreshing. A pleasant aperitif. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Chardonnay, Teva, 2004: Showing much the same as at an earlier tasting. With a distinct smoky-spicy overlay from the oak chips with which the wine was developed, that tending to overshadow the pear, melon and mineral aromas and flavors that remain somewhat muted throughout. Pleasant but without complexities. Drink now. Score 83. (Re-tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Chardonnay, Teva, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden in color, medium-bodied, with fine balance between light spicy oak, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate, pear, melon and citrus backed up by a handsome mineral note that lingers nicely on the palate. Best from release-2008. Score 88. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Shiraz, Bar, 2004: A medium-bodied blend of 86% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Franc,and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, with light, near-sweet tannins and appealing plum, black cherry and wild berry fruits leading to a medium-long finish. Drink now-2007. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Hod, 2004: Aged in oak for 12 months, this medium- to full-bodied blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot, opens with a bit of bottle stink but that blows off quickly to reveal a well-balanced, deep garnet wine with appealing plum, currant and berry fruits, those complemented by hints of Oriental spices and a light herbaceousness. Drink now-2008. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Gilad, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Aged in oak for 12 months, this blend of Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Nebbiolo, and Barbera grapes (64%, 26%,8% and 2% respectively) has a distinctly Italian soul and might easily be thought to have originated in Tuscany. Deep royal purple in coor, medium- to full bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing strawberry, raspberry, red currant fruits, those overlaid with hints of black olives and anise. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Syrah-Petite Sirah, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, this oak-aged blend of 58% Syrah and 42% Petite Sirah shows generous but not dominating spicy wood and still firm tannins needing time to settle down. Opening to reveal a full-bodied, nicely round wine plum, wild berry and black cherry fruits on a spicy background. Best 2007-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Barbera 2005 (Barrel Tasting): 86% Barbera with 14% of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in to add backbone, this oak-aged, garnet towards deep royal purple wine shows generous soft tannins integrating nicely with acidity, spicy wood and appealing berry and currant fruits. On the long and generous finish a hint of smoky tobacco. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Cabernet Franc, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, developed in oak for three months, showing dark garnet in color, full-bodied and firm. Opens in the glass to reveal spicy wood, currant, blackbgery and light hints of mint and smoke. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 87-88. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Zohara, Teva, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): A blend that changes from year to year, from this vintage a pot-pourri of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz and Merlot. Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft round tannins. Aromas and flavors of berries, black cherries and currants with hints of spices and earthiness. Pleasant but perhaps a case of too many grapes spoiling the proverbial broth. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 3 Jul 2006.

Kfir, Zohara, Teva, 2003: My previous tasting note holds firmly. Deep ruby towards garnet in color, this medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Argaman (68%, 22% and 10% respectively) shows light tannins and a fresh, lightly spicy berry-cherry personality. Drink now. Score 84. Re-tasted 3 Jul 2006)

Kfir, Avichai, Teva, 2003: My previous tasting note holds firmly. A medium-bodied blend of 79% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petite Sirah. Dark garnet, with soft tannins and appealing aroma and flavors of plums, black cherries and currants all on a lightly spicy background. Drink now-2008. Score 86.

Kfir, Cabernet Franc, Dessert Wine, 2004: Generously sweet, with good balancing acidity, and medium-full on the palate, maintaining the blackberry, and greenness of the variety. Appealing but perhaps better as an aperitif than a dessert wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86.