Last year (1 January 2004), I visited Nachshon winery. About two weeks ago (10 Jan 2005), with just over a year having passed, I re-visited once again with winemaker Shlomi Zadok. After an extended tasting, I went with Zadok to visit his own small winery, Ben Hanna also to do tastings.

Increasing quality clearly continues at Nachson and now that Ben Hanna is beginning to come of age it is apparent that they too will be making wines well worth the tasting. Interestingly, even though Zadok is the winemaker at both wineries, he is succeeding very well in giving each set of wines a different personality and, as I have said on many occasions, that is important to me for if a boutique winery or garagiste does not make a statement about itself it automatically falls from interest. To put a partial finger on those differences, the Nachshon wines lean towards soft tannins, marked raspberry flavors, generous but well balanced oak and the ability to approach them quite early on while those of Ben Hanna tend to a no less fruity but more herbal-mineral direction, that partly reflecting that many of the wines reflect the Negev terroir from where grapes are partly drawn.

Following are my tasting notes of the wines I sampled from both wineries.

Rogov

Nachshon

Cabernet Franc 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Destined as one of the grapes to be used in the French Blend wine of the winery's Sela series. Showing red berries, soft tannins, a nice hint of vanilla developing within the barrels and rounded, almost juicy tannins. Earthy and aromatic, born to be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux grapes. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Argamon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): An Argaman tasty enough to almost make me apologize for some of the very negative things I have said and still say about this grape. In addition to the deep royal purple color one expects of this variety, showing showed medium-body, as well as generous raspberry and citrus peel flavors. Faulted primarily because it lacking in bouquet the wine might make a very pleasant little quaffer. Despite that, I suspect that the wine will be used largely as a blending agent. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep cherry-ruby red in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries, promising to be a gently oaked, well rounded and nicely balanced wine. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Syrah, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal-purple in color, already showing a nice touch of sweet cedar wood, with firm but nicely yielding tannins. Aromas and flavors of currants, red berries, plums and hints of vanilla scented oak. Tannins and wood promising to be in good balance and with the potential for medium-term aging. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tastings): Tastings from two different barrels, one used French barrels and the other of new American oak, both perfectly dry but the first showing firm and almost sensually sweet tannins, a bare hint of vanilla and traditional blackcurrant fruits, the second with softer and more round with comfortably yielding tannins and in addition to currant and berry fruits gentle overlays of sweet herbs and dark chocolate. Excellent potential but because one can only imagine the final blend, no score to be awarded at this time. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Pushkin, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): A deep garnet red, medium-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6%Argaman and 4% Syrah, with light oak influence, soft tannins and appealing berry-cherry and currant fruits. Not a long but a pleasant finish with wiled berries and hints of sage and tar. Certainly the best yet in this series. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Sela, French Blend, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A blend this year of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabenret Franc and Syrah (37%, 33%, 25% and 5% respectively), this full-bodied red shows smooth tannins well balanced by smoky oak and aromas and flavors of raspberries and blackberries. Meant for early drinking, so drink from release – 2006. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet red, medium- to full-bodied, with a good touch of sweet cedar wood nicely set off by soft tannins and currant and berry fruits. Best from release-2007. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Merlot that spent two years in oak. Rich and,round, with tannins nicely integrating and overall good balance. Drink now-2006. Score 86. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Syrah, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Dark purple in color,medium-bodied,with good balance between soft tannins, smoky wood, raspberries and black fruits. Moderately long but not for aging. Drink from release. Score 86. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Sela, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: An oak aged blend of 50% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Low in both tannins and acidity, with the oak somehow dominating the too stingy berry, cherry aromas and flavors, not an altogether successful attempt. Score 80. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Merlot, 2001: With the addition of 4% Cabernet Sauvignon to add a bit of backgone, this deep ruby toward purple, medium to full-bodied shows soft tannins, Mediterranean herbs and a light earthiness overlaying black currant and black cherry fruits. Shows a bit of bottle stink when first poured but this fades quickly in the glass. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 10 Jan 2005)

Ayalon, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2001: Showing somewhat better than earlier this medium-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvigon and 40% Merlot offers soft tannins nicely set off by ripe cherry and plum flavors, and with crisp acidity and a generous and medium-long mouth filling finish. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 10 Jan 2005)