January 6, 2006 morning and early afternoon was devoted to barrel tastings, advance tastings and re-tastings of the wines of two wineries – Nachshon and Ben Hanna, the first of these a boutique winery producing some 20,000 bottles annually and the second a garagiste with a current production of about 3,000 bottles. Considering that Shlomi Tzadok is the winemaker for both wineries, the second being his own endeavor, tasting was simplified and took place on Kibbutz Nachshon..

As to the coffee that was offered me - considering the rural kibbutz setting, I anticipated and received nothing more than simple café botz (coffee grinds over which are poured near-boiling water) and a few of the simplest jam-flavored cookies. To tell the truth, the coffee couldn't have been that bad as I had one cup before the tasting and followed this with another afterwards. I do, however, admit that immediately on return to Tel Aviv, I entered one of my local cafes there to down two double macchiatos.

As is well known to those who follow these postings, my comments on the coffee offered to me during my winery visits is merely a source of light and well-intentioned humor. What is far more important in this case is that here are two wineries, both of whose wines have been improving in quality and interest on an annual basis, this making both worth following. My tasting notes follow.

Best,
Rogov

Nachshon

Nachshon, Pushkin, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah (43%, 42%, 11% and 4% respectively) was aged partly in French barriques for 6 – 8 months and partly in stainless steel tanks. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrated nicely and aromas of spicy wood, raspberries and cassis, a good quaffer that lingers nicely on the palate. Drink from release-2007. NIS 45. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Pushkin, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Moderately dark garnet, this medium-bodied blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 9% e3ach of Cabernet Franc and Argaman shows a gentle wood influence, soft tannins and appealing berry-cherry and currant fruits. Not complex but round and easy to drink. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Pushkin, 2003: A deep garnet red, medium-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6% Argaman and 4% Syrah, with light oak influence, soft tannins and appealing berry-cherry and currant fruits. Not a long but a pleasant finish with wild berries and hints of sage and tar. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, French Blend, Sela, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-dark garnet in color, with silky tannins, this blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (41%, 33%, 16% and 10% respectively) shows an appealing array of wild berries, currants and plums, those on a gently spicy background. Rich, round and moderately long. Drink now-2008. NIS 60. Tentative Score 87-89 (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, French Blend, Sela, 2003: A blend this year of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah (37%, 33%, 25% and 5% respectively), this smooth and round full-bodied red was aged in mostly new French oak for 16 months. Soft tannins well balanced by smoky oak and aromas and flavors of plums, cherries and raspberries. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Cabernet Franc, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely, this blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 7% each of Merlot and Petite Verdot was aged partly in French and partly in American oak. On the nose and palate generous earthy plum and currant fruits together with hints of citrus peel, cinnamon and tobacco. Best 2007-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Syrah, Ayalon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): With the addition of 15% of Cabernet Sauvignon, this dark royal purple oak-aged wine opens with a light but tantalizing herbal nose and then goes on to show aromas and flavors of black cherries, cassis and blackberries, those backed up nicely by hints of tobacco and licorice. Best 2007-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Ayalon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of almost equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, this dark, medium- to full-bodied wine shows a rather generous hand on the oak but that may well settle down with time. Beyond that dusty tannins and good purple plum and blackcurrant aromas and flavors. Best from release-2008. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ayalon, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and aged for 25 months in new and 1 year old barriques, this medium- full-bodied, deep garnet red wine shows near-sweet tannins and hints of sweet cedar wood complemented nicely by spicy berry and currant fruits. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ayalon, 2002: Developed for 2 years in oak, this deep garnet blend of 66% Casbernet Sauvigmon and 34% Merlot shows good balance between soft tannins, smoky wood and berry, currant and black cherry fruits. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Merlot, Ayalon, 2001: My former tasting note (22 Jan 2005) holds firmly: Ayalon, Merlot, 2001: With the addition of 4% Cabernet Sauvignon to add a bit of backbone, this deep ruby toward purple, medium to full-bodied wine shows soft tannins, Mediterranean herbs and a light earthiness overlaying blackcurrant and black cherry fruits. Shows a bit of bottle stink when first poured but this fades quickly in the glass. Somewhat past its peak so drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Nachshon, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Ayalon, 2001: Fully mature but continuing to show nicely, this medium-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvigon and 40% Merlot offers soft tannins nicely set off by ripe cherry and plum flavors as well as crisp acidity and a generous and medium-long mouth filling finish. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Ben-Hanna

Ben-Hanna, Mediterranean Blend, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, with soft tannins well balanced by spicy wood and appealing blackberry, currant and cassis aromas and flavors. An oak aged blend of 50% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 33% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this soft and elegant wine will drink nicely from release-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Ben-Hanna, Petit Verdot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Bright garnet red in color, with silky tannins, medium-body and generous black fruits, this offers the promise of being a round, generous and elegant wine. Best from 2007. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Ben-Hanna, Cabernet Franc, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium garnet towards purple in color, with soft near-sweet tannins. Rich in black fruits and hints of citrus peel and mint, the wine promises to be deep and long. Best from 2007. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Ben-Hanna, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep youthful purple in color, with generous firm tannins just starting to integrate and good balance between wood and fruits. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, blackberries and light herbal and spicy overtones all leading to a long and mouthfilling finish. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Ben-Hanna, Single-Humped Merlot, 2004 (Advance Tasting): If the name of this one doesn't make you smile, nothing will, but no fear, all becomes clear when you see the picture of a camel on the label. Based largely on grapes from the Negev, made almost entirely for export to the United States, this is a frankly beautiful wine. Soft, round and generous with blueberry, blackberry and currant notes along with hints of mint and sweet herbs, all coming together harmoniously. Perhaps the best yet from this winery. Drink from release-2008. Score 91. (Tasted 9 Jan 2006) *

Ben-Hanna, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Shalem, 2003: My earlier tasting notes hold firmly: Dark ruby towards royal purple, medium to full-bodied, with still firm tannins nicely balanced by spicy wood and already showing tempting berry, currant and black cherry fruits, those backed up nicely by light hints of earthiness and herbaceousness. The best yet from Ben-Hannah. Drink now–2008. Score 87. (Re-tasted 9 Jan 2006)

Ben-Hanna, Cabernet Sauvignon, Orca Selection, 2003: Made exclusively for Tel Aviv's Orca restaurant. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, aged in 1 year old barriques for 24 months, with tannins and wood that are pronounced when the wine is first poured, but these softening in the glass to reveal fine balance between those elements and ripe blueberry, plum and currant fruits, all of which linger nicely on the palate. Appoachable and even enjoyable now but best from 2007. Score 91.
(Tasted 9 Jan 2006)

* Of the Single-Humped Merlot, some 100-150 bottles are available locally and those can be purchased directly from the winery by phoning 052 3435558.