As will be seen when reading my comments and tasting notes, I suspect I will be forgiven for having sub-titled this thread "A Star Is Born"

A good part of my day on Wednesday, 25 January, was devoted to a broad tasting at the Golan Heights based winery of Tal Pelter. Established in 2002 by Pelter who studied oenology and worked at several wineries in Australia, currently located on Kibbutz Ein Zivan but with plans to construct a new winery on Kibbutz Merom Golan on the Golan Heights, the winery draws on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Grenache, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes from the Golan, the Upper Galilee and the Jerusalem Mountains. The winery, one of only three in the country to produce a sparkling wine, releases wines in two series, T-selected and Pelter. Production from the 2002 vintage was about 4,000 bottles, current production is about 30-35,000 bottles annually and plans for future expansion are up to 50,000 bottles.

Far more important than the statistics, Pelter most assuredly seems to be one of those winemakers who has set out to do things "his way", striving not only for wines that will attain excellence but that will reflect his personality and philosophy. That many of his wines are going to prove excellent becomes clear as does their individuality. As often I have reflected, the most fascinating wines are those that in addition to excellence catch our interest and our imagination and give us pause for reflection.

Best

Rogov

Pelter, Blanc de Blanc brut n.v. (Advance Tasting): Pelters second release of a sparkling wine, this too to be released as a non-vintage wine but with Chardonnay grapes entirely from the 2003 vintage. Gentle yeast and hints of nicely toasted white bread here, with sharp bubbles rising from a central point and going on and on. Fresh, aromatic, well focused and intense, with grapefruit and lime fruits backed up by hints of cloves, ginger and roasted nuts. A fascinating combination between muscle and gentility. Best from release-2010. Score 90.

Pelter, Blanc de Blanc, Brut, n.v. (Advance Tasting): Although categorized as a non-vintage sparkling wine, the grapes for this bottling all come from the 2002 vintage. With a long, high mousse, sharp bubbles and a marked overlay of yeast, this Chardonnay-based wine also shows tropical fruits and citrus peel aromas and flavors, those along with a tempting hint of bitter oranges that arise on the long finish. Not for long-term cellaring but delicious from release. Score 89. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Blended with 10% of Semillon to round it out, unoaked, as are all of Pelter's white wines, this crisp and refreshing wine offers up bright, vivid and generous aromas and flavors of guava, grapefruit and green apples and, lurking in the background making itself felt almost as an unconscious hint, a hint of celery that keeps appearing through the long finish. Not for long-term cellaring but delicious and enchanting from release. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Crisp, clean and straightforward, light golden straw in color, medium-bodied with god balancing acidity allowing appealing citrus, melon and light grassiness to show through. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter Chardonnay, Unoaked, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Absolutely lovely! Fresh and lively, with generous but not at all overbearing acidity showing appealing peach, apricot and tropical fruits on a background that tantalizes with hints of freshly mown grass. Drink from release. Score 90. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Semillon, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Partly fermented in stainless steel, and part in barriques for 2 months just to give a hint of the wood. Perhaps the very first truly successful local dry Semillon, with a character of lemony, herbal and pepper aromas and flavors highlighting citrus, pears and green apples, all leading to a long and spicy finish. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable young but with the definite potential to develop and flesh out with appropriate cellaring. My guess – best from 2008. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc, 2004 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Deep ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, showing a rich core of berry and currant flavors, those with herbal and cedar overlays, all on a background of supple tannins. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable from release but best from 2008-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, round and generous with silky soft tannins allowing us to focus on blueberry, plum, cola and light herbal-spicy notes, all leading to a long and satisfying finish. Best from release-2009, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc, 2002: My earlier tasting notes (19 Mar 2005) hold fast: Dark garnet in color, medium to full-bodied, and with an appealing berry-black cherry personality. Soft tannins, overall good balance, and a mouth-filling finish. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Aged in American oak for 18 months, this blend of 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz shows a medium-dark garnet color, a strong acidic backbone and appealing spices and vanilla from the wood, none of which hold back at all on the layers of blackberry, cherry, herbal and earthy aromas and flavors. Good concentration, ripeness and smoothness lead to a long and generous finish. Drink from release-2012, possibly longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2003: Showing even better than at earlier tastings. Dark ruby in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely. On the nose and palate berry, currant, plum and tobacco aromas, those opening in the glass to reveal hints of espresso and chocolate. Drink now-2008. Score 88. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2002: Medium-bodied, dark garnet in color, this oak-aged blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Shiraz shows appealing herbal and leathery overlays, those nicely highlighting blackcurrants, plum and spicy oak aromas and flavors. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark purple towards black, lush and elegant with a rich array of ripe raspberry, plum and berry fruits, those matched nicely by herbal and chocolate aromas and flavors. Firm tannins here, especially on the finish but with just the right levels of French oak influence and both balance and structure that bode well for the future. Best 2008-2012, possibly longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Oak aged for 14 months in new French barriques. Smooth, rich and supple, with ripe plum, currant and berry fruits together with an array of mocha, tobacco and espresso coffee, all complemented nicely by a hint of vanilla-scented oak. Finishes tannic so give this one some time to show its elegance. Best 2008-2012. Score 90. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Shiraz, T-Selection, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): A wine of which might be said in the most positive way - "you name it, it has it". Dark, dense and concentrated, spicy and complex, with muscular and earthy currants and blackberries backed up by herbal and spicy oak, all with a generous dose of firm tannins but those all turning smooth and polished as they open to reveal tempting mineral, sage and cedar flavors. Long and generous and with the promise for true elegance. Best from 2007-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-dark garnet towards royal purple in color, full-bodied, with generous tannins well balanced by the influence of aging in French oak casks for 14 months. Distinctive, ripe and luxurious, with near-sweet plum, blueberry and citrus peel intertwined beautifully with spicy, herbal and pomegranate aromas and flavors. To be excellent on release but even better with cellaring. Best 2007-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Dark, almost impenetrably purple in color, this is a rich, big and juicy wine, absolutely loaded with blackberry and plum fruits, those set off nicely by hints of cloves, coffee, citrus peel and black pepper, all on super-soft tannins. Generous, long and mouthcoating, a harmonious wie that will develop nicely in the bottle. Drink from release-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Jan 2006)