The 28th of December 2004 had me at the Recanati Winery doing an extended set of barrel, advance and re-tastings together with winemaker Lewis Pasco. People have asked on other threads if I have seen any direction towards a shortening of drinking windows for several of the Special Reserve and Reserve wines. The answer is an unequivocal no! In fact, what impresses is an increasing level of consistency in style and temperament of the wines. In a phrase, a still young winery growing up rather nicely indeed.

One of the great charms of this tasting was that it took the form of a series of mini-verticals of various wines in various series. Following, in the order of my tasting are my various notes.

Best,

Rogov

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Light straw colored, medium-bodied, not specially aromatic but with very appealing summer fruits on a grassy, earthy background. Gripping and attention-getting. Drink now. Score 88. K (Tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2003:Light straw in color, this unoaked, fresh and lively medium-bodied white starts off with earthy-mineral aromas, those yielding nicely to guava, grass and nectarine flavors. Good character. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 28 December 2004)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Golden straw in color, medium-bodied, lively but complex with aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, melon and citrus. Lively, complex, round and long. Drink from release-now-2007. Score 88. K (Tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Developed sur lie in barrels for eight months, this medium- to full-bodied Chardonnay reflects just a hint of wood over appealing citrus and tropical fruits. Good balancing acidity here and a nice hint of spiciness. Drinking very well now-2006. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2002: Light golden straw in color, with generous the litchis and pineapple fruits and good acidity. Drink up. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2001: An appealing golden straw in color, with apple, citrus, mineral and spicy flavors along with just the barest trace of oak. Drink up. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2000: Medium-bodied, with appealing lemon and lime flavors along with hints of orange peel and vanilla. Drink up. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Barbera, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Aged for 9 months in used French barriques, a very pleasant little cherry towards garnet colored, medium-bodied wine with light tannins allowing the cherry, berry flavors to come through nicely. Lacking complexity but a very pleasing quaffer. Drink from release-2006. Score 86. K (Tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, 2003 (Advance Tasting): My earlier note holds firmly: Deep garnet toward purple, this concentrated, full-bodied and generously tannic wine has expressive spicy plums and black cherry fruits, those complemented nicely by spicy, earthy overlays as well as a light hint of asphalt that develops on the finish. Needs time for the tannins to settle down. Drink from release–2008, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Shiraz, 2003 (Advance Tasting): My earlier note holds well: Aged in new French and American oak, dark ruby toward purple in color, this medium-bodied, moderately tannic and well-balanced wine shows enchanting aromas and flavors of jammy fruits, those with spicy, peppery and licorice overtones, all reflecting the judicious use of oak. Drink now–2008. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recati, Reserve, Merlot, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Already showing concentrated and complex ripe currant, cherry and sweet oak aromas and flavors, this graceful wine is true to its variety and promises a long and generous finish. Drink from release-2008. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Merlot, 2002: Tight and somewhat austere, with cherry and wild berry fruits backed up by hints of tea, herbs and cedar wood, the wine lacks complexity and has a tannic edge that may or may not settle down with time. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Merlot, 2001: My earlier note holds firmly: Dark, deep and mysterious, this tempting medium to full-bodied wine has plenty of smooth tannins and abundant dark fruit, chocolate, vanilla and smoky-herbal aromas and flavors. Still somewhat tight when first poured, it needs time to open in the glass. Drink now–2008. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Merlot, 2000: Deep royal purple, this medium to full-bodied red offers aromas and flavors of black currants, purple plums and sage. Remaining somewhat heavy on the oak, but well structured and balanced enough to carry that. Drink now–2008. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Ripe and rich, well balanced, with medium to full-body and soft, sweet tannins, traditional Cabernet currant and berry fruits as well as hints of anise and light toasty oak flavors. Best 2006–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Still firm tannins make this young wine very tight, but given time to open it will show cedar, oak, currant, plum and anise flavors. Somewhat short and perhaps lacking the structure for long-term cellaring. Drink now–2006. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Dark in color, firmly tannic but with concentrated currant, berry and spicy aromas and flavors, the wine has a welcoming hint of raspberries on the long finish. Complex and elegant. Drink now-2007. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: Having lost the first flush of youth, now with hints of browning but still fresh nd with plenty of oak and tannins balanced nicely by rich black fruits and overlays of freshly picked truffles,espresso and leather. Drink now. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2000: After 18 months in new French oak, this full-bodied young blend of 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot now with its once tight tannins softening nicely shows tempting currant, black cherry and vanilla. Good balance between tannins, fruit and smoky oak and now starting to show its herbal, earthy and leathery nature on the long finish. Drink now-2007. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2001: My earlier note holds fully with one exception – I'll add a year to the drinking window. A blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot, this full-bodied, deep garnet toward purple wine offers tempting currant, blackberry and raspberry fruits, those backed up nicely by generous but soft and well-integrated tannins and a nice touch of oak. Showing beautifully now. Drink–2008. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Recanati,Special Reserve, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of grapes from vineyards at Manara, Alma and KeremBen Zimra, this deep, broad wine shows traditional Cabernet currants, cassis and spicy-herbal overtones. Good balance between wood, tannins and fruit and a long finish. Needs time. Best from 2006-2012. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Re-tasted 28 Dec 2004)

Other Barrel Tastings:

Some exciting things starting to show from very early barrel tastings from the 2004 harvest and too early for formal notes, those including a medium- to full bodied and remarkably deep Barbera, already showing red berries, strawberries and moderate oak; several versions of 2004 Shiraz, one tannic,earthy, herbal and floral with black fruits, the other more gentle with softtannins and abundant red fruit; several samplings of Zinfandel from Menara, and almost blackberry rich Petite Sirah; a Cabernet Franc with traditional plums and herbs on a background of currants and gentle tannins; a sweet, Mediterranean herbed Merlot from Manara; and several versions of Cabernet, all showing promise.