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>> Rogov's Tastes » Recanati - February 2007

 

A good part of my morning and early afternoon was spent on Monday, 12 Feb 2007 visiting the Recanati Winery, there in the company of winemaker Lewis Pasco and CEO Noam Jacoby doing barrel, advance and re-tastings. As will be seen in reading my notes, some of the tastings were mini-verticals of each of the wines released since the winery's founding, those especially in the Reserve and Special Reserve series.

Located in the Hefer Valley in the north part of the Sharon region, the winery relies on grapes from their own as well as contract vineyards, primarily in the Upper Galilee. Under the supervision of California trained winemaker Lewis Pasco, who is known to many of us a regular forum member, the winery currently produces wines in several series: the top-of-the-line Special Reserve wines, which are often blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; and two varietal series, Reserve and Recanati, which now include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay and most recently Sauvignon Blanc. The winery also has a popularly priced series named Yasmine. Production is currently about 600,000 bottles annually. Winery owner Lenny Recanati is currently negotiating the purchase of land in the Judean Hills on which to build a new and larger winery to replace the existing facility.

My thanks to Lewis, Noam and the winery staff for their courtesies during my visit and for a rewarding tasting.

 

Rogov

 

Special Reserve

 

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components but already showing the potential for being the darkest and most strikingly full-bodied release in this series. Generous tannins still making themselves felt but yielding to show currant, blackberry and kirsch aromas and flavors on a tasty oak background. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins still with rough edges but those merely needing time to integrate and show the wine's fine balance and structure. A big, rich and bold wine, with concentrated layers of currant, blackberry, anise and cedary oak flavors. Still young so once released cellar this one for a while. Best 2008-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Showing as well as during barrel tastings. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot, with generous but not exaggerated toasty oak and soft tannins, those integrating nicely and opening to reveal a rich array of currant, blackberry and black cherry fruits, those with gentle but tantalizing overlays of mint and chocolate. As the wine develops look for hints of cigar tobacco that come in on the long finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2003: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. A blend of grapes from vineyards at Manara and Kerem Ben Zimra, this deep, broad, gently tannic blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot combines Cabernet currants, cassis and spicy-herbal overtones with typical Merlot softness. Good balance between wood, tannins and fruit and a long finish. Best 2008–2012. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2001: As in its youth, deep garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with fine balance between well integrated soft tannins, spicy and mocha-rich oak and currant, blackberry and ripe red plum fruits. Some variation between bottles but that primarily in fruit intensity and not at all harming this lush wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. K (Re-tasted twice 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2000: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. Aged 18 months in new French oak, this full-bodied now well-matured blend of 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with its once tight tannins now softened, shows good balance between tannins, fruit and smoky oak. With tempting currant, black cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors, and herbal, earthy and leathery notes on the long finish. Not for further cellaring and with a good deal of variation between bottles. Drink up. Score 90. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 12 and 13 February 2007)

 

Reserve

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but already showing dark youthful purple, generous near-sweet tannins and forward currant, spice and mocha notes. Juicy and long. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark and intense but with subtlety and finesse. Soft tannins, a gentle hand with the toasty oak and generous red currant, black cherry and berry fruits, those with appealing hints of mocha. A long, firm and ripely tannic finish. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Showing even better than at barrel and an earlier advance tasting. Dark garnet, with orange and purple reflections, with tannins yielding and integrating nicely and generous but well-in-proportion spicy wood opening to reveal curran, plum and blackberry fruits, those supported nicely by light hints of herbs and cedar wood. Drink from release-2010, perhaps longer. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003: Super-dark garnet in color, ripe and rich, now showing full-bodied with soft tannins integrating nicely. On the nose and palate an appealing array of currant and berry fruits, those complemented by hints of Oriental spices and toasty oak. Generous. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2002: Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied and with still firm tannins, those yielding in the glass to show generous wood, currants, plums and spicy-herbal aromas and flavors. Somehow the elements fail to come fully together. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2001: Dark garnet in color, with a bit of clearing around the rim, as comfortably tannic as it was in its youth and still showing an array of currant, plum and berry fruits. Remaining elegant but now with an appealing earthy-mineral edge creeping in. Drink now. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, firm in texture with the tannins just starting to soften but already showing forward blackberry and plum fruits and developing an appealing mocha hint. Chewy, round and long. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. K. (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Smooth, round and generous, rich and spicy, with a fine core of raspberry, cherry and creamy oak, those backed up by hints of minty chocolate that linger nicely. Good balance here between fresh acidity, wood and fruits and a finish that seems not to want to quit. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins and near-sweet oak integrating well. On the nose and palate black cherries, berries and currants on a tantalizing earthy-herbal background and, on the long finish hints of chocolate. A bit reticent now. Best 2008-2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2003: Dark garnet in color, showing very well now, my earlier tasting note holds firmly. With firm tannins giving a solid backbone, sweet oak that makes itself felt from first attack to the long finish, and layers of currant, black cherry, mocha and chocolate, a concentrated and graceful wine. Drink now–2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2002: Medium-dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with well integrated tannins. Showing somewhat heavier wood and herbs than earlier but continuing to show appealing berry, black cherry and bitter-sweet chocolate. Long and mouth-filling but not meant for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 88. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati Merlot, Reserve, 2001: As dark today as in its youth, medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins integrated nicely and continuing to show blackberry, currant and chocolate aromas and flavors. With the once gentle herbal aromas and flavors now rising, best to finish this one off now or in the next year or so. Score 89. (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Shiraz, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple in color, with still chewy tannins but those surrounding spicy wood and a generous array of blackberry, black cherry, roasted meat and green olive aromas and flavors. Best starting in 2008-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Shiraz, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, with well focused tannins and moderate spicy wood in fine balance with black cherry, wild berry and cassis fruits, those with just a hint of smoked meat in the background. At this stage the still firm tannins hold the wine back a bit, but all this one needs is some time. Best starting in 2008. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Shiraz, Reserve, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Dark cherry-red towards garnet, supple and round, with black cherry, herbal and beefy aromas and flavors, those coming together with firm tannins and sweet cedar wood. On the long appealingly tannic finish, toasted bread and mocha. Drink from release–2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Cabernet Franc, Reserve 2004 (Advance Tasting): Aromatic, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely. Showing an appealing array of currant, plums and wild berries, those complemented nicely by light smoky wood, tobacco and refreshing acidity. Drink from release-2009. Score 90. K. (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of 88% Petite Sirah and 12% Zinfandel. Youthful royal purple at this stage, it's soft, mouth-coating tannins integrating nicely and taking on smoky and dusty wood. Opens to reveal blueberry, pomegranate, mocha and sage notes. Destined to be a tannic and firm but elegant wine. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark and concentrated, with firm, crisp tannins integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich oak. On the nose and palate blackberry, raspberry and black cherry fruits, those coming together nicely with hints of minerals and an appealing light earthy note. Long and generous but needs a bit of time to round out. Best 2008-2011. Score 90. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Rich, round and soft, dark garnet, with orange and purple reflections, medium- to full-bodied, and with soft tannins and Mediterranean herbs balanced nicely by generous currant, plum and berry. Drink now-2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Merlot, 2005: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: Garnet-red, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins nicely balanced by hints of cedar wood. Firm but lively, with appealing aromas and flavors of red berries, spices and tobacco that linger nicely. Drink now-2008. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Shiraz, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A ripe, rich and more chewier release than usual in this series. Showing floral and crushed fruit on the nose as it opens this dark garnet towards royal-purple wine shows off nicely with aromas and flavors of cherries, blackberries, freshly ground coffee on first attack, those yielding nicely to spices and sweet cedar wood. Very nice indeed. Best 2008-2011. Score 90. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Shiraz, 2004: Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with a gentle spicy layer highlighting hints of toast and sweetness from the American and French barrels in which it developed. Showing plum, blackberry and cherry fruits, those matched nicely by hints of thyme and a light meatiness that develops on the lingering finish. Best 2008-2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Barbera, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from two barrel samples. Showing the promise to be a very tasty Barbera, with generous aromas of crushed berries, black cherries and a hint of chocolate liqueur, all supported nicely by lightly toasted oak and velvety tannins. Perhaps not one for long-term cellaring but delicious from release-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Barbera, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, with good acidity, a light hand with the wood, generously aromatic and showing aromas and flavors that open with cherry and berry fruits, those yielding to plums, lemon rind (yes, lemon rind) and, on the generous finish an appealing hint of chocolate. Drink from release-2009, perhaps longer. Score 88. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Barbera, 2004: Still youthfully royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with fine balance between gently spicy oak, acidity and velvety smooth tannins. Look for aromas and flavors of blueberries, blackberries, black cherries and plums, those with appealing hints of chocolate and earthy minerals and, on the finish a hint of white truffles Drink now-2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Barbera, 2003: Fermented in stainless steel and then transferred to barriques for about 9 months. Now showing garnet towards deep royal purple, medium bodied, with,soft tannins nicely integrated with lightly spicy oak, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate vanilla, plums cherries and currants. Soft, round and appealing. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Rose, 2006 (Advance Tasting): The first rose released by the winery and very nice indeed. A blend of 96% Cabernet Franc and 4% Barbera, in color between rose petal pink and cherry red, with fresh berry and strawberry fruits along with a touch of crisp minerality. A fun wine. Drink from release. Score 87. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2005 (Advance Tasting): With about 9 months in new and used French, Hungarian and American oak, showing light golden straw in color. Opens a bit flat but given a few minutes in the glass opens very nicely revealing fresh, crisp aromas of citrus, melon and apples, those backed up by nice hints of minerality. Drink from release. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Light straw in color, unoaked and showing crisp, fresh acidity that highlights citrus, honeydew melon and light grassy aromas and flavors. Drink from release. Score 86. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)

 

Recanati, Yasmin, White, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A light- to medium-bodied blend of Emerald Riesling, French Colombard and Sauvigon Blanc. Nothing complex here but an easy to drink little wine with crisp and clean citrus and tropical fruits. Drink from release. Score 84. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2007)