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Regional Report: Eastern Mediterranean

Drinks International May 2007

One of the world’s oldest wine-producing is finally gaining recognition after 2,000 years in the shadow of its European counterparts. Adam Montefiore finds out why.

The Eastern Mediterranean, comprising Cyprus, Greece, Israel, Lebanon and Turkey, is politically one of the most divisive regions in the world. Greece and Turkey have had their historical differences; the tiny island of Cyprus is still divided and Israel and Lebanon’s last altercation actually disrupted the 2006 harvest in the Galilee and Bekaa Valley respectively. These are the only wine regions in the world divided by borders of war and religion.

However, there are similarities that unite them culturally as being part of the Eastern Mediterranean. Visit a restaurant in any of these countries and you will find mezze being served. These are the little hors d’oeuvres served on small plates, put in the centre of the table. They will more often than not be accompanied by the indigenous anise flavoured spirit of the Eastern Mediterranean – which turns milky white on the addition of water. It is variously known as Arak in Lebanon & Israel, Raki in Turkey or Ouzo in Greece & Cyprus.

The whole area also has a well-established coffee culture, linked to the generous local hospitality. Strong coffee is served in small cups. Though known as Turkish coffee in Turkey, Cypriot in Cyprus or Lebanese in Lebanon, it is basically the same in Athens, Beirut, Istanbul, Nicosia and Jerusalem. You just have to be careful not to ask for Turkish coffee in Cyprus and vice versa! In Israel it is known as ‘mud coffee’ which best describes the fine coffee grounds, which remain like mud in the bottom of the cup.

Another factor in common is wine. This area was the cradle of the grape.

The Eastern Mediterranean was the region that gave wine culture to the world, long before the vine even reached the rest of Europe. This is the region that was the France & Italy of ancient times. The history, archaeology, literature, religious ritual and folklore of the area bear witness to a very advanced wine industry, which was a mainstay of the economy and an important part of the lifestyle. However there was a big gap between the golden age of the ancient world, including the Biblical period and the rebirth of a modern wine industry, which had its roots in the 19^th century.

Etko, the oldest Cypriot winery was founded in 1844 by the Haggipavlu family; the Lebanese winery Ksara was started by Jesuits in 1857. In Greece, Achaia-Clauss was founded by Gustav Clauss in 1861, and was followed by Boutari in 1879, the Samos Cooperative in 1891 and Kourtaki in 1895. Israel’s Carmel had an auspicious beginning being founded in 1882 by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, a co-owner of Chateau Lafite.

However, until recently, the region was considered out of step with the technological advances made elsewhere. Greece was primarily known for its Retsina, a white wine with pine resin added. Cyprus’ main products were bulk wines, which it sold to the Soviet Union or Emva Cream sherries that were exported to England. Israel was more associated with sweet, kosher sacramental wines, sold in Jewish communities. Lebanese wines were mainly found in Arabic restaurants and Turkish wines in kebab fast food kiosks.

Over the years, the region did manage to gain a justified good reputation for its wonderful and unique dessert wines. For example, the Achaia Clauss Mavrodaphne from Greece & Keo St John Commandaria from Cyprus are absolutely original. The grapes for Mavrodaphne are sundried, the wine is fortified after fermentation and then aged for a long time in large barrels. The opulent result is a cross between a tawny port and a Recioto from Valpolicella.

Commandria is the world’s oldest wine brand dating from the 12^th century Crusades. The grapes are sunned, fermented, fortified with grape spirit and then aged in a solera. The wine, history in a bottle, is brown, very sweet, almost treacly. However other dessert wines also regularly also win recognition in international competitions. For instance, Carmel’s Late Harvest Gewurztraminer from Israel, Kefraya’s Lacrima d’Oro from Lebanon and all the Samos Muscats from Greece – are considered to be dessert wines of the highest quality.

Quality Revolution

The stirrings of a quality revolution started with three famous names. Domaine Carras was the first estate to make world class Greek wine, employing the expertise of Bordeaux guru Emile Peynaud in the 1970’s. Lebanon’s Chateau Musar first caught the world’s attention in 1979 at the Bristol Wine Fair, partly due to the unique wine from a most unlikely source and but also due to the charming and dynamic owner, Serge Hochar. It remains the most celebrated winery in the Eastern Mediterranean. The Golan Heights Winery imported Californian expertise and introduced new world technology in the 1980’s. Their Yarden wines won numerous gold medals and proved that Israel too could make world class wines. These three pioneers were the catalysts that triggered a whole series of changes in their respective countries.

Firstly there was an influx of expertise from internationally trained winemakers - the Greeks & Lebanese were mainly influenced by France; the Israelis more by California & Australia. Secondly there was an explosion of new boutique wineries – particularly in the 1990’s. Finally the larger wineries – in particular Boutari, Kourtaki and Tsantali from Greece, Ksara from Lebanon and Carmel from Israel, responded to the new situation. They each reinvested in quality and reacted to the challenge laid down by Carras, Musar & Golan respectively.

Greece has by far the largest wine industry in the region. The country has 300 indigenous varieties and one of the most exciting factors is the constant discovery of new varieties suitable for quality wine. Malagousia, Mavroudi, Mavrotragano are current examples of varieties being resurrected by pioneering wineries. This is a godsend for consumers bored with Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay.

Starting in the early 1990’s, new wineries sprung up like mushrooms. Gaia at Nemea in the Peneloponnese and Domaine Gerovassiliou from Epanomi in Macedonia, make genuinely world class wines. Alpha Estate, Biblia Chora, Kyr-Yanni and Tselopos are not far behind. The large wineries responded by diversifying, building new wineries and giving a new attention to quality. Greek giant Boutari built small wineries in Crete and on the island of Santorini, remodeled its existing wineries in Macedonia, took over Cambas and started to produce wines from all over Greece using both local varieties and international varieties, to highlight the individuality of the different regions.

D. Kourtakis, the largest producer in Greece, originally primarily known for Retsina, decided to expand their operations, particularly in Central Greece and the Peloponnese. They invested heavily in new technology, incorporated Calligas wines into their portfolio and bought a 50% share in Oenoforos, a leading winery offering excellent value. They renamed the company Greek Wine Cellars, decided to remain loyal to Greek varieties and started to produce quality wines at every price point.

The third of the big companies, Tsantali, is a negociant, with wineries in Macedonia, Thrace and Thessaly. They have specialized in reviving viticulture in dormant areas in northern Greece.

Boutari, Greek Wine Cellars D.Kourtakis and Tsantali are the main ambassadors of Greek wine worldwide.

In Israel, there is a very small but dynamic wine industry. It is based on advanced technology in the vineyards, state of the art equipment in the wineries and the knowledge of young, internationally trained winemakers. International varieties have been introduced in the new cooler, higher altitude vineyards of the Upper Galilee, Golan Heights and Judean Hills. The three largest wineries – Carmel, Barkan and Golan Heights Winery, have 75% of the market. There are a further 20 commercial wineries and numerous boutique and garagiste wineries. Smaller wineries to attract attention are Domaine du Castel from the Judean Hills, west of Jerusalem, Galil Mountain from the Upper Galilee, and Yatir Winery from the northeast Negev.

Carmel followed the pattern of the large wineries in the region. They planted new vineyards, especially in the Upper Galilee, brought in new young winemakers trained in Australia & France, and employed a consultant from California. They then built two small wineries close to key vineyards and launched a range of single vineyard wines, which have received rave reviews.

Lebanese wine has been dominated, both in market share and perception of quality, by Chateau Ksara, Chateau Kefraya and Chateau Musar, which have 70% of the market. However in the last few years the number of wineries has doubled and there are a whole host of new wineries elbowing in to the picture. Wineries like Massaya, a French-Lebanese joint venture, Clos St. Thomas and Domaine Wardy are making impressive strides. The main region is still the Bekaa Valley, but some of the newer boutique wineries are planting vineyards in new parts of Lebanon.

After the setbacks of the Civil War, Ksara invested heavily in the 1990’s to bring the winery up to date. It is now regarded as Lebanon’s fastest improving winery, is a very strong performer in export markets and provides quality and value at every price point. Ksara is 150 years old in 2007 and is midway through a further major investment program.

Greece, Lebanon & Israel are today making exciting wines that are sought by enterprising sommeliers and wine stores for their quality, originality and the fact that they come from the world’s ‘newest’ quality wine region. Outstandingly the best quality white wines and dessert wines are coming from Greece; possibly the best reds are being produced by either Israel or Lebanon, depending on whether a fruit forward ‘New World’ style, or more traditional French style is preferred. Eastern Mediterranean wines, whether Gaia or Gerovassiliou, Musar or Massaya, and Yarden or Yatir, have gained respect as producers of real quality and are beginning to appear together on quality restaurant wine lists. Likewise the wines of Boutari, Carmel, Kourtaki, Kefraya and Ksara may be found on the shelves of wine stores in a new ‘Eastern Mediterranean’ category.

The unfortunate paradox is that exports are still primarily to the ethnic markets and the stereotype is that wines from these countries are only suitable for the local Greek/ Cypriot store, the kosher shelves or the nearby Lebanese restaurant. This is a problem shared by the different countries. Therefore the main challenge of the region as a whole in the coming years is to spread the word and reposition the Eastern Mediterranean brand.

Unfulfilled Potential

The boundless potential of the other two countries in the region, Cyprus and Turkey, as yet remains unfulfilled. They have not yet reached the quality levels of Greece, Israel and Lebanon, but things are starting to change. In both countries there are new boutique wineries and the large wineries are also investing in quality.

Cyprus, which has the highest proportion of vines per capita in the world, has never suffered from phylloxera. The four large wineries, Keo, Loel, SODAP and Etko, which control over 85% of the market, are all based in Limassol - a hot coastal area not close to the higher altitude vineyards. They were previously geared to producing bulk wines. However there are promising developments. New Zealand and Australian winemakers are being employed for the first time. Keo, the biggest winery, is now producing wine at the smaller Laona and Mallia wineries situated in the Troodos mountains, close to their vineyards. The SODAP co-operative has moved all their production to a brand new Kamanterena Winery at Stroumbi. Another initiative is the new winery called Kyperounda, which at over 1,400 meters altitude, is as high as anywhere in Europe. This is a joint venture between Boutari and a Cypriot distributor.

One of the problems is the time it has taken for Cypriots to realize that the much-planted Mavro grape is not a quality variety. However some of their local red varieties such as Maratheftiko and Lefkada have real potential. The white Xynisteri is capable of producing crisp white wines but only when grown in the cooler climate of the higher altitude vineyards.

Turkey has the 4^th largest area of vineyards in the world – of which only 2% goes into wine production. The wine and spirits monopoly, TEKEL, has been privatized and there are a number of new wineries. However the two largest wineries, Doluca of Thrace and Kavaklidere of Anatolia still make the best known wines. Doluca, influenced more by California, recently introduced the Sarafin label to market the first international varieties in Turkey. Kavaklidere, with a French trained winemaker, specialise in local varieties. There are some good rustic red wines produced from the Boglazkere and Okuzgozu grapes and Narince is a popular white wine variety.

The Eastern Mediterranean has reawakened after being asleep for 2,000 years. It is now a fascinating wine region with a perfect climate, unique terroir, indigenous varieties and advanced technology in vineyards and wineries.

For the first time it may be said that the long history of winemaking in the region is today matched by the high quality of its wines. The Eastern Mediterranean is arguably the fastest developing, most exciting and most dynamic wine region in the wine world. A whole new world - in one of the oldest wine producing regions on earth.

EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN STATISTICS

Vineyards – Table & Wine Grapes (‘000s ha)

Turkey 570

Greece 130

Cyprus 17

Lebanon 15

Israel 7

Wine Production (‘000s hl)

Greece 3,799

Cyprus 385

Israel 266

Turkey 225