Rogov's Tastes » Saslove & Chillag -March 2006

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>> Rogov's Tastes » Saslove & Chillag -March 2006

Yesterday, found me on Kibbutz Eyal, there visiting the winery of Barry Saslove. Because the physical facility also hosts the winemaking facilities of Orna Chillag, I happily doubled-up my work and first, in the good company of Barry Saslove and his daughter Ronni and then in the equally good company of Orna Chillag to do tastings of the wines of both wineries. Happily for me and despite that yesterday was the Ides of March, no-one carrying a sharp knife made even the hint of an appearance. In fact, I was even offered a good cup of coffee.

As a point of information, Saslove is currently moving his operations to a now under construction facility in the industrial area of Ramat Dalton in the Upper Galilee, that quite near his own vineyards, and Chillag is in the process of relocating to a new facility in the industrial area of the town of Yahud.

Rogov

Saslove

Established by Barry Saslove in 1998 on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region, this boutique winery has vineyards in the Upper Galilee currently planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The winery is also currently planting Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and Gewurztraminer grapes. Current production of red wines is in three series: Reserved, Adom and Aviv, and the winery occasionally produces white wines as well. Production has grown steadily, from 35,000 bottles in 2002 to 55,000 in 2005. Projected production for 2006 is about 80,000 bottles. Beginning with the 2003 harvest Saslove has also produced two kosher Cabernet Sauvignon wines under the label “K by Saslove”, using the facilities of Carmel in Zichron Ya’akov. 2005 production for the kosher wines is about 10,000 bottles.

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet with purple and orange reflections and fine balance between oak, spices, and firm but nicely integrating tannins. An oak-aged blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, showing aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries, raspberries. Supple and elegant with a long blackberry and herbal finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 91. (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 2002: Now taking on a nose of sweet herbs, this dark garnet, full-bodied wine is maturing nicely, continuing to show currant, vanilla and herbal aromas and flavors that come together nicely and lead to a long, rich finish. Drink now-2008. Score 89. (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adom, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form, the wood just beginning to make itself felt but already showing fine balance between tannins, natural acidity and generous fruits, all on a full-bodied and mouthcoating frame. Look for currant, black plum and toasted citrus peel on first attack those followed by appealing herbal and tobacco notes. Best 2007-2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Aviv, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with still firm tannins needing a bit of time to integrate but already with a generous array of blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those with an appealing spicy overlay. Best 2007-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 15 Mar 2005)

Saslove, Merlot, Aviv, 2005: Medium-bodied, with caressing, near-sweet tannins and a generous array of black fruits backed up nicely by earthy, herbal and chocolate that linger nicely on the palate. Best 2007-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Saslove, Marriage, Adom, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A medium- to full-bodied blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (60%, 32% and 85 respectively), showing good balance between soft tannins, wood and fruits. On the nose and palate dark plums, cassis and berries that come together nicely. Soft and caressing. Best from release-2008. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Saslove, Marriage, Aviv, 2004: My recent tasting note holds firmly: A blend of 60% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Syrah, all from the Upper Galilee, developed on oak chips for 6 months. Dark garnet in color, with soft tannins integrating nicely with vanilla and white pepper, those on a background of blackberries, currants and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now-2008. Score 87. (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Also tasted, from different vineyards and different barrels, five of the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon wines still waiting for blending and a 2005 Shiraz from the Upper Galilee that already showing plumy, mineral, earthy, spicy and meaty aromas but waiting to find its destiny as either a blending agent or a varietal release.

Chillag

After studying oenology in Piacenza, Italy and working at the Antinori wineries in Tuscany, Chillag released her first wines in Israel in 1998. Now located in a new facility in the industrial area of the town of Yahud, and the winery relies on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Upper Galilee, the winey has recently planted its own Syrah, Petit Verdot and Petit Sirah.. Production has grown from 4,000 bottles in 2002 to 12,000 each in 2003 and 2004 and 15,000 in 2005. Anticipated future production is 20,000 bottles.

In addition to regular releases in two series, Primo Riserva and Giovani, Chillag also produces a line of kosher wines under the label “Orna” at Carmel in Rishon Letzion. Made from hand-selected grapes grown in the Zar’it vineyards in the Upper Galilee, 15,000 bottles of Chillag’s first kosher Cabernet Sauvignon were released in mid-2005.

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primo Riserva, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Delicious stuff. Full-bodied, deeply tannic and even now with generous but judicious wood, all in fine balance with tempting blackberry, red currant and Oriental spices, all leading to a rich, long and blueberry-laded finish. Best from 2008-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primo Riserva, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards purple in color, with firm tannins but those well balanced with wood and fruits. Rich blackberry, cherry and licorice flavors with overlays of spicy oak and licorice. Long and elegant. Best 2008-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Chillag, Merlot, Primo Riserva, 2004: Impressive aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, minerals and toasty oak, with somewhat firm tannins that seem not to want to integrate and a somewhat medicinal aroma that lingers. Perhaps better with time. Score 86. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Chillag, Merlot, Primo Riserva, 2002: Medium- to full-bodied, with velvety tannins, this elegant and harmonious red shows tempting fresh black currant, berry and plum flavors, those with hints of cedary, spicy notes. Look for a long, vanilla and berry rich aftertaste. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006).

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Giovane, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Relying on Montalcino yeasts to give the wine a distinct Italian flair, this deep, dark and round wine already shows soft tannins and temptingly forward fruits, those including cherries, wild berries and cassis, those on a warmly spicy background. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Chillag, Merlot, Giovane, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): As deep in its rich garnet-red color as it is in tannins and reflecting the oak casks in which it is developing with a gentle hand, this medium- to full-bodied wine is already showing generous berry, black cherry and cassis fruits, those matched with gentle hints of bitter herbs and, on the long finish a hint of peppermint. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Chillag, Merlot, Giovane, 2004: Dark royal purple in color, full-bodied and with firm but caressing near-sweet tannins opening to reveal lush blackberry, currant, plum, vanilla and mocha aromas and flavors, those leading to a fruit-loaded long herbal finish. Soft, round and long. Drink now-2008. Score 89. (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006)

The Kosher Wines

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Orna, 2004: Dark royal purple in color, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely. Look for aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, plums and berries, those with a nice spicy overlay. Drink now-2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Orna, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Made from grapes specially selected at the Zar’it Vineyard in the Kadesh Valley of the Upper Galilee and aged in French oak casks for 14 months. Ripe and chewy, with soft tannins and plum and blackcurrant aromas and flavors that linger nicely on the palate. Drink now–2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 15 Mar 2006)

Also tasted from barrel an experimental blend of 2005 Petit Sirah and Petit Verdot, those fermented together and now developing in oak. Ri pe and complex, beautifully focused plum, blackberry, floral, coffee and earthy aromas and flavors, those ending with toasty and herbal hints. Simultaneously intense and elegant. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 15 Mar 2006)