A good part of my afternoon on Wednesday, 7 February, was devoted to a vertical tasting of each of the wines yet to be released and already released by the Savion winery. Founded by Asher Salmon and Eli Pardess on Moshav Messilat Tzion in the Jerusalem Mountains and with new vineyards in which they are raising their own Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz, this micro-winery released its first wine from the 2000 vintage and is currently producing about 1,200 bottles annually. Grapes come primarily from Ramat Dalton and other locations in the Upper Galilee.

This is the smallest winery to enter into my annual book (my usual cut-off point is minimal production of 2,500-3,000 bottles annually) and the reason for that is the obvious quality and interest of their wines. For those interested, the wines are available from Derekh ha Yain. The winery can be contacted by telephone at 02 5336162. The wines are priced at about NIS 90 per bottle.

My thanks to Messrs. Salmon and Pardess for their courtesies and a rewarding tasting.

Best
Rogov

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, firm, concentrated and intense medium- to full bodied, with generous soft tannins, and complex blackberry, currant, tobacco and anise aromas and flavors. At this stage developing in American and French barriques, already showing sharp focus and with the tannins firming up on the long, fruity finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, aged primarily in American oak, already showing spicy and vanilla rich wood, chewy tannins and, given time in the glass opening to reveal layers of currant, black cherry, anise, cedar wood and sage. Finishes with chewy tannins and tempting berry-cherry flavors. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Blended with 10% of Merlot and aged for 12 months in primarily French oak. Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely and well balanced with fruits and acidity. On the nose and palate blackcurrants and berries, those complemented by herbal and tobacco aromas and flavors. On the comfortably long finish a nice hint of white chocolate. Approachable now but best 2008-2011. Score 89. (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Intensely deep royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with gripping tannins well balanced by spicy wood and acidity. On the nose and palate red and black currants and berries, those now with appealing hints of sweet herbs and on the long and generous finish a tempting overlay of bitter-sweet chocolate. Drink now-2009, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Dark garnet in color, with tannins that seem to have decided to remain as firm today as in the wine's youth, that perhaps reflecting the "2002 curse" of the many wines that although tempting were not destined for long-term cellaring. On the nose and palate primarily currant and plum fruits along with spices. Blnded with a small amount of Merlot, the wine is still drinking nicely but is a bit past its peak. Drink up. Score 86. (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: I've extended the drinking window on this one by a bit but my most recent tasting note holds firmly: Full-bodied, with good balance between generous but soft tannins and fruits, this blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot spent 12 months in barriques, that reflected by hints of smoke, vanilla and cedar wood on a background of currant, plum and berry fruits. A long, just spicy enough finish. Drink now-2009. Score 89. (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Savion, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: The first wine released by the winery and indeed one of a kind, more dense and herbal in style than later releases. Blended with small amounts of Merlot and Syrah and aged in barriques for 12 months,, this full-bodied and wine remains as deeply inky-purple today as in its youth. With tannins now nicely integrated, opens with spicy berries, those going to currants and ripe plums, those with generous herbal and espresso coffee overtones. A long mouth-filling finish. Drink now or in the next year or so to catch this one at its best. Score 89. (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007) *

*As a possible point of interest, Asher Salmon feels that the 2000 wine will still be drinking well in another decade. We disagreed and, in the most friendly of fashions made both a wager and a dinner date for five years from now, I binging a bottle of white to start our meal and he a bottle of this wine. Loser of the bet pays for dinner. Who says that being a critic cannot be fun?