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>> Rogov's Tastes » Sea Horse - February 2008

Tuesday, 5 February had me on the train to Beit Shmesh, there to be met by Ze'ev Dunie to visit and do tastings at his Sea Horse winery. In Ze'ev's car, to which I affectionately refer as "the felach-mobile" (the peasant's car) because it is never quite free of the earth of the fields and invariably has winemaking tools in it, we drove through the Jerusalem Hills which are always exquisite and rightfully earn such routes a good name and then arrived for our tasting.

My thanks to Ze'ev for his warm greeting and good company, for a fine tasting and (of course) for the cup of espresso coffee that I received after our tasting. My tasting notes follow.

Best
Rogov


Sea Horse, Chenin Blanc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Made from 32 year old vine Chenin Blanc, with drastic cutting back to concentrate the crop, and fermented and developed sur lie in three-year old barriques. Rich, crisply dry and well focused, with tangy mineral, chamomile, grapefruit, white peach and nectarine aromas and flavors, those supported very nicely by hints of figs and ginger. At the same time tangy, lively and elegant. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 89-91. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Gaudi, 2006: Dark royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft but mouth-coating tannins, this is a "wild" wine in that it seems to almost burst forth on the nose and palate, at first with raspberry and cassis notes and then, with a second burst, tobacco and spices. Happily, all of these integrate nicely and lead to a long simultaneously tannic and fruity finish. A blend of 50% Carignan, 33% Syrah and 17% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink from release-2009. Score 88. (Tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Camus, 2003: Shiraz, showing inky dark garnet, full-bodied with its firm tannins in fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose primarily black fruits, and on the palate wild berry, black and red cherries, and an appealing leathery note on the finish. Rich and complex and clearly at its peak now. Drink now-2009. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Camus, 2004: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, and with soft, caressing tannins, this blend of 94% Syrah and 6% Petit Sirah reflects its 12 months in oak refreshing acidity, and spicy-toasty oak. On the nose and palate black currant, blackberry, tobacco, and a hint of freshly tanned leather with white pepper and cigar tobacco rising on the long finish. Drink now–2009. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Camus, 2005: This almost inky-garnet, full-bodied blend of 92% Syrah and 8% Petite Sirah is reflecting its 12 months in French oak with a gentle layer of spicy wood, that well balanced by generous but yielding tannins and on the nose and palate smoky blackberries and currants, Oriental spices and hints of game meat. Soft, round and well focused with the tannins, rising on the long, supple finish along with appealing hints of leather and black pepper. Best 2009–2011. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Camus, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Fim and gripping tannins opening to reveal dense blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those backed up by aromas and flavors of minerals, black pepper and cigar box. At this stage massive, but with balance and structure that bode well for future elegance. Best 2009–2013. Tentative Score 90–92. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Antoine, 2003: Made entirely from Syrah grapes, this oak-aged, dark garnet wine continues to show blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits supported by overlays of spices and leathery and light meaty overtones, all leading to a long finish. On the outer cusp of its peak. Drink now. Score 89. Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Antoine, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied, with its once-firm tannins now integrating nicely with wood and fruits. Revealing traditional Syrah aromas and flavors of plums, blackberries and licorice, those supported nicely by near-sweet oak and a hint of spiced meat on the long and satisfying finish. Drink now–2009. Score 91. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Antoine, 2005: Made entirely from Syrah grapes, this full-bodied wine spent 16 months in used French barrels and now shows deep garnet-towards royal-purple color with gripping tannins in fine balance with gentle oak. Opens on plumy and leathery notes that yield to blackberries, spices and red licorice. A long, generous finish with a tantalizing bitter note. Drink now–2011. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Antoine, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and generous pepper from the oak in which it is aging. Opens to show appealing raspberry, cassis fruits on a light herbal and leathery background leading to a spicy but not long finish. Drink from release-2011. Score 89. (Tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Take Two, 2003: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: A blend of 90% Zinfandel, 9% Petite Sirah and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, this medium to full-bodied wine reflects its eight months in American oak with good balance between tannins, wood and fruits. A true Zinfandel personality: round and juicy with spicy berry and cherry flavors with a firm tannic edge and a moderately long tar and anise finish. Not for further cellaring so drink in the near future to catch the charm of the wine. Score 89. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Take Two, 2004:Dark garnet, aged in oak for 8 months, this blend of 88% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon shows light meaty and leathery notes. Smooth and round, with wild berry and cassis fruits that make themselves felt nicely. Drink now. Score 89. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Take Two, 2005: A medium-bodied, softly tannic blend of 85% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan that was aged for 8 months in primarily American oak. Ripe and round, with light peppery and chocolate overtones highlighting plum, raspberry and wild berry fruits, those with hints of anise and minerals. Ripe, round and generous. Drink from release–2010. Score 89. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Take Two, 2006: This oak-aged blend of Primitivo, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah shows deep and dark, with fine intensity and generous firm tannins backing up plum, cherry and chocolate aromas and flavors, those on a medium to full-bodied frame all leading to a long fruity finish. Drink now–2010. Score 88. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Lennon, 2003: A medium to full-bodied blend of 95% Zinfandel and 5% Petite Sirah. With 14 months in American oak, this generously tannic wine shows good concentration of ripe, juicy cherry and wild berry flavors as well as an appealing pepper and anise edge. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Lennon, 2004: Aged in oak for 14 months, this medium- to full-bodied blend of 95% low-yield Zinfandel vines and 5% Petite Sirah, the wine shows good balance between wood, tannins and alcohol. Opens to reveal generous raspberry, plum and cassis fruits, those matched nicely by light peppery, vanilla and minty overtones. Firm and concentrated, lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Lennon, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. A blend this year of 90% Zinfandel and 5% each Petite Sirah and Carignan. Aged for about 16 months in used American oak barrels, this full-bodied, deep, dark garnet wine is richly aromatic, with soft tannins integrating beautifully with the wood and wild berry, blackberry and sage notes. All coming together nicely in a long spicy finish. Drink now–2010. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Lennon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, this bend of 92% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah shows soft and round with gently mouth-coating tannins and a moderate hand with spicy oak. On the nose and palate red plums, wild berries and hints of Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Fellini, 2003: With once firm tannins now integrated nicely and continuing to show fine balance between acidity, wood and fruits. A blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon was oak-aged for 18 months in French and American oak, showing black currant, blackberry and red plum fruits, those on a spicy and simultaneously near-sweet background. Lingers nicely on the palate. Drink now. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Fellini, 2004: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. Super-dark amber towards inky black in color, this blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah developed in oak for 16 months and shows gentle cedar and cigar-box hints that run throughout. On the nose and palate wild berries, currants and a generous hint of citrus peel, those complemented nicely by light earthy and leathery overtones. Mouth-filling, long and generous. Drink now–2009. Score 91. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Fellini, 2005: A blend of 46% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, those complemented by 8% of Petit Verdot. Developed in French and American oak for 16 months, this medium to full-bodied wine shows silky tannins along with cherry, raspberry and licorice aromas and flavors, those opening to reveal tempting hints of Mediterranean herbs and bittersweet chocolate on the finish. Drink now–2011. Score 90. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Fellini, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium-bodied, soft and round, showing silky tannins and a gentle hand with the oak in which it was aged. On the nose and palate plums, raspberries and cassis. Not an overly complex wine but a very appealing one. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 5 Feb 2008)

Sea Horse, Elul, 2002: Deep garnet towards royal-purple, this full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 6% Syrah, shows generous but soft and well-integrating tannins and jammy currant and berry aromas and flavors set off by spices and toast, all showing appealing overtones of Mediterranean herbs. Plush and elegant, with a long finish that yields bittersweet chocolate. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 91. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Elul, 2003: This well-balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Sirah (85%, 10% and 5% respectively) was developed for 20 months in barriques. Ripe black cherry, currant and berry fruits overlaid nicely by hints of anise, spicy oak and light earthiness, all culminating in a long and generous finish. Rich and elegant. Drink now–2010. Score 92. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Elul, 2004:, A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah and 5% Petite Sirah. Deep, almost impenetrable garnet, full-bodied, with firm tannins complemented by spicy oak. On first attack currants and plums, those yielding to red and black berries, a hint of iron, and finally to bittersweet chocolate and Mediterranean herbs, all lingering comfortably. Ripe, round and mouth-filling. Drink now–2010. Score 92. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Elul, 2005: A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah and 9% Petite Sirah developed for 20 months in French and American oak, and showing dark, youthful royal-purple, medium- to full-bodied with firm, near-sweet tannins. Opens with currant, kirsch and black cherry fruits, those yielding to hints of licorice, spices and berries, all leading to a long and complex finish. Drink now-2010, perhaps longer. Score 91 (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Elul, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Super-dark towards inky purple, full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely with cigar-box and spicy wood overlays. A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah and 4% Petite Sirah, on first attack with generous blackberry and currant fruits, those yielding nicely to near-sweet cassis and Oriental spices. Long and generous. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Munch, 2005: My earlier tasting not holds firmly: Made entirely from Petite Sirah grapes from a dry-farmed vineyard. Dark, almost inky teeth-staining purple, with firm, brooding tannins waiting to settle down and full-bodied enough to be thought of as chewy, but with all of that in fine balance with blackberries, currants, ripe plums and hints of citrus peel and tobacco all on a spicy and near-leathery background. Destined for intensity rather than elegance, recalls some of the most interesting wines of this variety from California. Best 2009-2013. Score 91. (Re-tasted 5 Feb 2008)

 

Sea Horse, Munch, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Petite Sirah showing its black and concentrated best. Full-bodied, tannic and with generous wood in fine balance and waiting to settle down to reveal a tempting range of plum, blackberry, blueberry and currant fruits. Give this one time and it should prove supple, ripe and rich. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 5 Feb 2008)