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| >> Rogov's Tastes » Tabor - January 2008 | |
Morning Monday 28 Jan 2008 found me off to the Galilee, there not far from the shadow of Mt. Tabor to visit and do advance and re-tastings at the Tabor Winery. When I first visited this winery, in early 2000, production was about 20,000 bottles annually and the winery did not even boast a full-time winemaker. Growth was immediate, European trained winemaker Arieh Nesher was taken on as senior winemaker, the quality of the wines was high and value for money was very good. When IBBL (the company that does Coca Cola in Israel) first bought into the winery and later as it purchased A controlling interest, I was concerned, envisioning trucks simultaneously laded with Coke and Tabor wines making the rounds in the heat of summer, the wines probably no more sophisticated in quality than the Coke that stood alongside it. My worries were for naught. Coke may now be the major shareholder but winemaking and winemaking decisions remain fully in the hands of winemaker Arieh Nesher and CEO Oren Sela. The winery is currently releasing wines in three series. The top-of-the-line label is Mes’cha, a series of blends and varietal wines including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and occasionally Chardonnay. A second label, Adama, reflects the type of soils in the vineyards. In reading the labels it may be useful to know that adama translates into soil; gir is chalky soil; terra rossa is red earth; charsit is clay and bazelet refers to volcanic soil. There is also a more basic series released under the label Tabor. The winery is now producing close to 950,000 bottles annually, has recently taken on an additional 800 dunams (200 acres) of vineyards under long-term, full-control contracts and is adding state-of-the-art equipment as the winery expands. Quality has not only remained high but continues to demonstrate itself in new ways and the policy of maintaining high value for money remains well in place. My tasting notes from the day follow: My thanks to Arieh Nesher, Oren Sela and those of IBBL who were present for a fine tasting, for their courtesies and for more than a few cups of espresso coffee. Note: Prices for the wines in the Tabor series are NIS 42 each, forthose in the Adama series, NIS 65 and for the Mescha 2003, NIS 116. Best Tabor, Chardonnay, 2007: Sparkling clear light gold in color, light- to medium-bodied, with appealing flinty and steely minerals and finely tuned acidity supporting appealing citrus, grapefruit and passion fruit aromas and flavors, a lovely unoaked white. Intentionally not overly complex but drinking beautifully. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Adama, Gir, 2007: The color of light golden straw, showing apple, melon and peach fruits, those supported nicely by crisp acidity, stony minerals and a light hint of freshly mown grass. Lightly frizzante when served well chilled. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Rose, Adama, Charsit, 2007: The best and most refreshing rose from the winery to date. Cherry-red in color, crisply dry, with a tempting array of raspberry, red and black cherries and watermelon fruits all on a crisply dry and tangy floral background. NIS 42 for 500 ml. bottles. Drink now. Score 88.(Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Merlot, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft, well integrated tannins, a round, easy to drink wine showing appealing spicy berry and currant fruits. A very pleasant match to roast chicken, pasta, pizza or lamb chops. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 ( Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, dark royal purple in color, with gently mouth-coating tannins opening to reveal red currant and red berry fruits. Easy and refreshing drinking. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Merlot, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Soft, smooth and round, with gently mouth-coating tannins and appealing berry, black cherry and currant fruits showing appealing herbal overtones. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins. A soft, round and fruity red showing blackcurrants and blackberries on a lightly spicy background. Not complex but appealing and a good match to steaks and small cuts of beef. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, with light spicy wood on near-sweet tannins and opening to reveal currant, purple plum and blackberry fruits, those on a background of milk chocolate and, on the finish nice hints of mint and white pepper. Drink now-2010. Score 89. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2005: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied and showing red and black berries, red currants, earthy minerals and hints of white chocolate, all on a lightly spicy and herbal background. Blended with 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon, round and generous. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2006 (Advance Tasting}: Garnet towards youthful royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing blackberry, blueberry and cassis notes, those supported by a generous green and herbal overlay that may not please all. Drink from release-2010. Score 87. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir 2005 My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Medium-dark ruby in color, with berries and black currants backed up comfortably by near-sweet tannins and hints of spicy wood, all coming together beautifully. Drink now–2010. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2004: Now at its peak and showing somewhat better than at earlier tasting.s. Medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 12 months in barriques with gentle hints of spicy wood and well integrated tannins, those in fine balance with black currants, red plums and wild berries. Good length here with hints of mint and chocolate on the finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan2008) Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir 2004: Medium-bodied, with gentle spicy oak influences and soft tannins integrating nicely, with raspberry, blackberry, cassis and light earthy-herbal overtones. A round, smooth and near-elegant wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Bazelet, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with fine grained tannins integrating nicely. A ripe, supple and harmonious wine showing currant and blackcherry fruits, those supported by hints of near-sweet cedar wood and dark chocolate. On the long finish an enchanting hint of licorice Best 2009-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Bazelet, 2005: Medium-dark garnet towards purple, this medium to full-bodied blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot was developed in 2000 liter wood casks and shows generous black currant, blackberry, citrus peel and earthy-mineral aromas and flavors. On the long finish hints of sweet cedar, tobacco and eucalyptus. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Terra Rossa, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Oak-aged for 9 months, with soft tannins, hints of spicy wood and vanilla and mouth-coating tannins settling down nicely. Showing currant, blackberry and generous earthy-mierals along with Mediterranean herbs. Round and generous. Drink from release-2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Terra Rossa, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with firm, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely. Aromatic and flavorful, with red plums, raspberries and currants matched by minerals and light hints of herbaceousness. Round, long and generous. Drink now–2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra Rossa, Adama 2004: Dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with spicy wood, soft tannins integrating nicely. Red currants, blackberries, raspberries and red plums on the nose and palate, those backed up by an appealing hint of earthiness that lingers nicely. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Tabor, Mescha, 2003: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot (75%, 15% and 10% respectively), this deep garnet, medium to full-bodied wine reflects its 18 months in oak with tannins and spicy wood integrating and opening to reveal black currant, berry and plum fruits on a background of spicy wood and Mediterranean herbs. Generous, well balanced and long. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K Mes’cha, 2002: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this medium to full-bodied red shows firm but well-integrated tannins with spicy oak and generous currant and blackberry fruits, those matched by hints of spices, earthiness and tobacco on the finish. Drinking well but showing first signs of aging. Drink up. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Mes’cha, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Showing every bit as well as in its youth. Dark garnet-red, medium to full-bodied, with good balance between firm but well-integrated tannins, spicy oak and an appealing array of black currant, plums, smoke and fresh earthy aromas and flavors. On the long mouth-filling finish hintsof minted dark chocolate. Drink now2010 Score 91. K (Re-tasted 28 Jan 2008) Just when I thought we had finished our tastings, a surprise was presented….. Tabor, Pnimim (Pearls), 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark but bright black cherry towards royal purple in color, medium-bodied, and made entirely from Merlot grapes. Two things surprise here – the first that the wine reminds of nothing more than a fine Dolcetto d'Alba and the second that it is lightly and enchantingly frizzante. Under no circumstances to be taken overly seriously, but with generous berry, plum, blackberry and dark chocolate, with well-integrated tannins a wine to be served well chilled and for pure, unadulterated pleasure. Lovely! Drink from release. Score for absolute pleasure – very high. Score - let's say 88. K Highly recommended. (Tasted 28 Jan 2008) |









