Rogov's Tastes » Teperberg 1870- April 2008

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>> Rogov's Tastes » Teperberg 1870- April 2008

Morning (Tuesday, 15 April 2008) found me on the train to Beit Shemesh, there to be met by senior winemaker Shiki Rauchberger and oenologue Olivier Fratty of Teperberg 1870, first (and thankfully) to stop at Aroma for several cups of espresso and then to make our way to the winery for a tasting.

With the exception of the barrel room, the winery has now moved almost completely to their new facilities on Kibbutz Tzora, and construction continues apace, with the new barrel room now underway and plans for permanent offices and a visitors' center moving along apace. With almost 90% of their vineyards now no more than thirty minutes from the winery and with state-of-the art equipment being installed, the change from the old location at Motza is a remarkable one, almost as if seeing a sleeping giant awake and move into a new century. With well-planned vineyards already in place and more on the way, one has to say that the winery has undergone a quantum leap in quality. Always a joy for a visiting critic!

For those who may wonder, beyond the tastings, such visits are most assuredly two-way streets, the winemakers learning a bit from the critic and the critic learning a good deal from the winemakers, not only about their wines but about what is happening on micro- and macro-levels within the industry.

My notes from the follow, those in the order the wines were tasted. My thanks to both Shiki and Olivier for a good tasting, stimulating discussion and their very good company. I am fairly certain that both will forgive me for referring to the winery as "Teperberg" and not using the full, official name of "Teperberg 1870"

Best
Rogov

Several general comments. Although the winery officially changed its name a while ago from Efrat to Teperberg 1870 (named after the family that has owned the winery since its inception), the Efrat label has not disappeared and may now be considered a sub-label of the winery. At the very top level are the Reserve wines, those followed wines in the Terra series and the Silver series. Following those are the wines in the Israeli and Collage series.

Efrat, Sauvignon Blanc, Israeli, 2007: Straw colored, light- to medium-bodied, with appealing pineapple, citrus and mineral aromas and flavors. Served very well chilled the wine becomes a good summertime quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Efrat, Chardonnay, Israeli, 2007: Medium-bodied, reflecting 3 – 4 months in stainless steel with oak staves by a light hint of spicy wood. Fresh and aromatic, with appealing citrus, tropical fruits and pear fruits. Lingers nicely. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Efrat, Merlot, Israeli, 2007: Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied with soft tannins and appealing berry and cassis notes. Soft, and round, the wine was blended with 105 Shiraz and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now-2009. Score 85. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Merlot, Silver, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Merlot grapes, dark-garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and light spicy and vanilla notes from exposure to primarily French oak for six months. Opens to show berry, black cherry and purple plum fruits on a lightly spicy background with a hint of black olives coming in on the finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 86. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Silver, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a generous sense of spiciness. An appealing melange of black and red fruits along with light notes of tobacco and chocolate. Drink from release. Score 86. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauignon, Silver, 2006: Showing a light spicy and smoky wood influence, medium- to full-bodied, with soft mouth-coating near-sweet tannins and a generous array of forward black fruits. Just enough complexity here to grab one'sinterest. Drink now-2010. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Terra, 2007: A dark garnet, medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 70% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc). Gently gripping tannins, light notes of spicy oak and good blackberry, raspberry and currant fruots on a tantalizing spicy and near-sweet background.. Drink now-2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Merlot Terra, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with caressing tannins, reflecting its 12 months in oak with gentle spices and smoke. On the nose and palate currant, blackberry and cranberry fruits, those backed u nicely by a light earthy-herbal overlay. Drink from release-2010. Score 88. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg Merlot, Terra 2005: Developing nicely and showing as well now as at earlier tastings. Garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, with still-gripping tannins in fine balance with wood, fruits and acidity. On first attack black fruits and a light earthy overlay, those yielding to raspberries, currants and minerals. On the mouth-filling finish generous hints of bitter-sweet chocolate and licorice. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with raspberry on the nose. With raspberry, cherry and cassis fruits, keeps the red-fruit tendency on the palate as well, showing good balance between firm tannins that need a bit of time to fully integrate, fruits and natural acidity. A long, gentle and near-elegant finish. Best 2009-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, this wine shows a gentle hand with spicy oak and soft tannins. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet black currant and blackberry fruits, those with spice and orange peel overlays and, on the moderately long finish, an appealing
hint of cigar tobacco. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark towards inky garnet, full-bodied, reflecting its 15 months in oak with gentle spices and a bare hint of smoke. Showing still firm tannins, those needing only a bit of time to settle down and already showing fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate an appealing array of spicy currant, blackberry, cedar and mineral notes those with a light hint of anise on the long and generous finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Score 89. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle smoky wood integrating nicely. Currant. Blackberry and raspberry fruits complemented by hints of, orange peel and light mocha aromas and flavors, all with a hint of Oriental spices rising on the finish. Drink now–2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Sangiovese, Silver, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Had I tasted this one blind, my first thought would have been "a nice little Chianti". True to the Sangiovese traits, showing a medium-dark garnet towards ruby, medium-bodied, with spice, anise and cedar notes highlighting currant and wild berry fruits. Not overly complex but flavorful and rich. Drink from release. Score 87. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg Malbec, Terra, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Nicely focused, withblack cherry, currant and cocoa notes along with hints of sweet toast and vanilla. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, most assuredly not an Argentinean Malbec but a very pleasant Mediterranean version. Drink from relese-2010. Score 88. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Petite Verdot, Terra, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied with spicy overtones, soft tannins. A supple, almost velvety wine with currant, tobacco and floral aromas and flavors with both tannins and fruits rising comfortably on the finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 87.K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Made entirely from grapes from the Shiloh vineyard, a super-dark, full-bodied and intense wine with still deep, almost searing tannins but already showing balance and structure that bode well for the future. Big and broad shouldered, true Cabernet in every sense, with blackberry, black currant, fig and mocha notes backed up by hints of lead pencil and cocoa. Long and generous, an appealing toasty sensation rising on the finish. Best 2009 or 2010 -2013, perhaps longer. Potentially the best to date from Teperberg. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg Merlot, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, full-bodied, tannic enough and packed with currant and blackberry fruits, that this one could easily be mistaken for a Cabernet Sauvignon. At this stage a blockbuster but one that offers the promise of settling down to show an always firm wine but one that is generous with its fruits (and may well add cherries and raspberries to its repertoire), and on the finish hints of loamy earth and sweet spices. Impressive. Best 2009-2013, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-92. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, White Riesling, Late Harvest, Silver, 2007: Light golden, with moderate sweetness offset nicely by natural acidity and a relatively low alcohol content (about 10.5%) and opening to show dried apricots, honeyed apples and a good hint of pepper. Lively and fresh, as good as an aperitif as a dessert wine. Drink ow-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)

Teperberg, White Riesling, Late Harvest, Silver, 2006: Delivers a generous mouthful of dried apricot, citrus, raisin, papaya and honey flavors. Generous sweetness here but that given good liveliness by citrus acidity. Fresh, clean and appealing. Drink now–2010. Score 89. K (Tasted 15 Apr 2008)