Rogov's Tastes » Teperberg 1870- March 2007

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>> Rogov's Tastes » Teperberg 1870- March 2007

As the song reminds us, "Istanbul was once Constantinople" and even "Old New York was once New Amsterdam" so there is no reason why a winery cannot change its name after some 137 years. Thus, with no relation whatever to the Turks or the Dutch but with a great deal of attention to currant changes in philosophy and quality, to historical realities and to image-building, what was until quite recently Efrat is now Teperberg.

Founded in 1870 by the Teperberg family in the Jewish quarter of the old city of Jerusalem, and then relocating outside of the walls, the winery moved in 1964 to Motza, on the outskirts of the city, for many years the winery was known as Efrat and during much of that time produced primarily sacramental wines for the ultra-Orthodox community. During the 1990s the winery also started producing table wines. Starting in 2002, under the supervision of California-trained winemaker Shiki Rauchberger the winery began producing wines destined to appeal to a more sophisticated audience. Now re-locating to their newly constructed winery on Kibbutz Tzora at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains, the winery has officially changed its name to Tepperberg 1870.

The winery, currently producing about 4 million bottles annually is now releasing wines in various series. The top of the line wines carry the label of Teperberg Reserve, those followed by wines in the Terra series and then in the Teperberg series. Also being produced are wines in the Efrat Israeli and Judean Mountain (Harai Yehuda) series. Grapes are drawn from the wineries own vineyards in the Judean Mountains as well as from the Central Plain and other regions, including several new and well tended vineyards. With the exception of the wines in the Teperberg and Terra series, all of the wines are mevushal. Target production within the next five years is 7 million bottles annually.

On Wednesday, 28 March 2007, I devoted much of my day to visiting the new Teperberg winery and to an interesting tasting. My thanks, especially to winemaker Shiki Rauchberger and oenologist Olivier Fratty for their warm reception, a good opening espresso at a nearby Aroma café and then their courtesies during a well-organized tasting. My tasting notes follow.

Best
Rogov

Teperberg Reserve

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teperberg Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle smoky wood integrating nicely. Traditional Cabernet currant and blackberry fruits, those complemented by hints of cherries, orange peel and light mocha aromas and flavors, all with a hint of Oriental spices rising on the finish. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Meritage, Teperberg Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing better than at barrel tastings. Dark, almost inky garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins that need time to integrate but showing good balance and structure. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (70%, 25% and 5% respectively), each from different vineyards, all fermented together , and already showing appealing blackcurrant, blueberry, chocolate and licorice and, on the long finish a light herbal overtone. Needs time. Best 2009-2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and reflecting its 12 months in American oak with hints of sweet cedar and vanilla. One the nose and palate currants, berries, sage and espresso coffee and on the finish a hint of asphalt, all coming together nicely. Drink now-2009. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Chardonay, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Golden in color with orange tints, showing appealing a moderate hand with spicy oak from its 8 months in baroques. Subdued when first poured but opens nicely revealing melon, pear and green apple notes, those on a near-creamy background. Drink from release-2009. Score 89. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Terra

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2005: Dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, showing a gentle hand with spicy oak and soft tannins integrating nicely. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those with appealing spicy and orange peel overlays and, on the moderately-long finish an appealing hint of cigar tobacco. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2004: Oak-aged for 12 months, showing soft and round with generous currant, plum and spices but showing a first hint of browning along with a rising herbaceousness. Drinking well but not for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Merlot, Terra, 2005: Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with still gripping tannins but those in fine balance with wood, fruits an acidity. On first attack black fruits and a light earthy overlay, those yielding to raspberries, currants and minerals. On the mouth-filling finish a generous hint of licorice. Needs a bit of time. Best starting in 2008. Score 90. K

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Terra, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (70%, 25% and 5% respectively), each fermented separately before blending.. Dark garnet, showing light spicy wood, soft tannins and an appealing hint of earthiness on the black fruits. Best from release-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Rose, Terra, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Rose petal pink in color, crisply dry and with fine acidity to keep it lively and showing raspberry, strawberry and cranberry fruits all with a light hint of spiciness that creeps in nicely Drink from release. Score 85. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Emerald Riesling, Terra, 2006: Aromatic, with floral and freshly mown grass on the nose and showing simple but appealing citrus and mango fruits. Half-dry and finishing with a hint of mint. A pleasant little wine. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg:

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards purple, medium- to full bodied, with near sweet tannins and forward black fruit. Needs a bit of time for its elements to come together. Best 2008-2010. Score 87. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Merlot, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards purple, medium- to full-bodied, with dusty wood and soft tannins coming together nicely with blackberry and berry fruits. Medium-long and generously fruity on the finish. Drink from release. Score 86. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Syrah, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, reflecting its 5 months in oak with gentle spices and a hint of toasty cedar wood. Medium-bodied, with soft but mouth-coating tannins opening to reveal purple plum and blackberry fruits, those complemented by a light and appealing earthiness that runs to the medium-long finish. Drink from release-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Chardonnay, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Golden straw in color, reflecting its 6 months in new French oak with a vanilla, spices and a light buttery overtone. On the nose and palate ripe summer fruits and pears, all coming together very nicely indeed. Drink from release-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Teperberg, Late Harvest Riesling, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Delivers up a generous mouthful of apricot, raisin, papaya and honey. Generous sweetness here but that given good liveliness by citrus acidity. Rich but not heavy, fresh, clean and appealing. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 88-91. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Israeli

Israeli, Chardonnay, 2006: Straw colored, lightly oaked, and light- to medium-bodied, this lively white shows appealing citrus. peach and mineral aromas and flavors. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 28 Mar 2007)

Three Components

An interesting part of our morning was going on to barrel tastings of three 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon wines, each having received quite similar treatment, the only differences in specific harvest dates and different regions within the country. In brief, three wines in their still pre-natal state, each showing light overlays of oak but beyond that notable differences.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Upper Galilee, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Super-dark garnet, full-bodied, with firm, still almost searing tannins but already showing generous red currant, cassis and raspberry fruits, all with an appealing earthy overlay.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Judean Mountains, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with firm but nicely yielding tannins, showing black fruits and herbal-tobacco overlays.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Shomron, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Inky dark purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing soft tannins already integrating well and black cherry, berry and cassis fruits along with generous spices that run through.