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>> Rogov's Tastes » Twelve Small Wineries

 

This past Sunday (17 Dec 2006), starting quite early in the morning and lasting until well into the evening hours, I visited twelve small wineries, most probably thought of more as "artisinal" in their level of production. The visit for tastings and re-tastings included primarily wineries in the Upper Galilee but also took me to the Golan Heights and to Zichron Ya'akov. The day, in very good company, was much enjoyed and so were at least some of the wines I sampled. As will be seen in the reviews that follow, scores awarded range from 50 to the low 90's.

For those who may not be familiar with my scoring system, scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. Wines rated 96 - 100 are those I consider truly great and those that earn 90 – 95 are exceptional in every way. Wines with scores of 85 – 89 are excellent and highly recommended; those with scores between 80 – 84 are recommended; wines earning 70 – 79 are average but at least somewhat faulted; and those earning under 70 points are not recommended.

Best
Rogov

 

Meister Winery
Meister, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A funky, muddy wine, with charred herb, tar and searing tannins that end with a chalky aftertaste. Tentative Score58-60. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Meister, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dry and bitter, with green earthy and tobacco ash aromas and flavors. Tentative Score 63-65. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Meister, Carignan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Weedy and vegetable aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with spicy oak, weedy and vegetable aromas and flavors that hide the black fruits that struggle without much success to make themselves felt. Tentative Score 68-70. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Meister, Shiraz, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, with barnyard aromas and flavors of slightly sour stewed plums and cherries and culminating with an earthy and balsamico finish. Tentative Score 55-57. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Rosh Pina Winery
Rosh Pina, Rose, 2006: An off-dry blend of Shiraz and Muscat, dull pale pink in color, with aromas and flavors that at one moment call to mind tutti-frutti and another tinned fruit salad. Drink now. Score 70. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Rosh Pina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2003: A blend of 60% Cabernet and 40% Shiraz. Light ruby towards brick red in color, light- to medium-bodied, far too acidic and with chunky country-style tannins. A few berry and black cherry fruits. Drink up. Score 75. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Rosh Pina- Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2004: Opens with powerful aromas of tobacco, stingy black fruits and an oddly sour cedarwood note. From there goes downhill, developing a distinct barnyard stink. Score 65. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Rosh Pina, Merlot, 2004: Garnet red, medium-bodied, with a few cherry and wild berry fruits but those overpowered by earthy, musty aromas and flavors. Score 74. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Rosh Pina, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Medium-bodied, dark brick red in color, with chunky tannins, a simple country-style wine with a few raspberry and plum flavors. Drink up. Score 78. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Rosh Pina, Carignan, Teva, 2004: A few raspberry fruits here but those struggling to be felt against too dominant horsy, leathery and herbal aromas and flavors. Score 70. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Assaf
Assaf, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Showing better than at an earlier tasting. Light golden straw in color and medium-bodied, with lively citrus and grassy aromas and flavors. Somewhat one dimensional but an appealing quaffer. Drink now. Score 86 (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Assaf, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, 2005: Made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, with skin contact limited to 7 hours, this medium-bodied, rose-petal pink wine offers up generous raspberry, strawberry and black cherry fruits, those on a mineral rich background, all with just enough acidity to keep it lively. Drink now. Score 88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Garnet towards deep purple, medium to full-bodied, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc was aged in partly French, partly American barriques for 12 months. Good balance between mouth-coating tannins, spicy and vanilla tinged oak, and acidity. On the palate wild berries, red currants and a light but appealing mineral hint, all lingering nicely. Drink now–2009. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Blended with about 7% of Cabernet Franc, this medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic, dark garnet towards royal purple wine shows fine balance and structure. Seductive, rich and supple, with lush raspberry, blackberry and currant fruits supported nicely by vanilla and, on the long finish the tannins rising again. Best 2007-2011. Score 90. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Assaf, Shiraz, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Thoroughly modern, this dark garnet towards royal purple wine has fine balance between spicy wood, acidity and plum and blackberry fruits. Concentrated and intense but settling down to an elegant roundness and a long, mouthfilling finish. Best 2008-2011, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): At this stage impenetrably dark royal purple in color, with still firm tannins but a wine in fine balance and with structure that bodes nicely for its future. On the nose and palate currants blackberries, vanilla, dusky herbs and a generously meaty overlay that rises nicely on the long finish. Approachable on release but more elegant and with a fine texture as it develops somewhat. Best 2009-2013 Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Snir Winery
Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon,2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and well balanced by a judicious hand with oak and acidity. On the nose and palate currants, backberries and raspberries, those with light spicy overtones that linger nicely on the finish. Drink from release-2009. Score 85. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Snir, Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and an appealing array of spicy berries and black cherries. Not complex but a good quaffer. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nimrod, 2004: Dark royal purple, aged in oak for 1 year, medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrating tannins and plum and blackberry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Nimrod, 2003: Dark purple, medium-bodied, with silky smooth tannins and appealing red currant, raspberry and red plums backed up nicely by a hint of toasted herbs. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Snir, Merlot, Nimrod, 2002: Dark purple towards inky black, with its black fruits somewhat hidden under deep layers of bitter herbs and earthiness. Drink up. Score 77. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's Winery
Amram's Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Breisheit, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark purple in color, medium-bodied, with chunky tannins and a generous hand with spicy wood, this blend of 75% Cabernet and 25% Shiraz shows plum and berry fruits on the nose and palate. A simple, country style wine. Drink from release. Tentative Score 78-80. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Merlot, Breisheit, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards purple, medium-bodied with soft tannins and primarily berry, black cherry fruits. Lacks complexity but an acceptable entry-level wine. Drink from release Tentative Score 80-82. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, Breisheit, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark but not completely clear garnet in color, partly oak-aged, a soft and round but quite simple wine with a not fully wanted hint of sweetness to the berry and currant fruits. Drink from release. Tentative Score 78-80. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A dark purple blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvigon and 40% Merlot. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and primarily blueberry aromas and flavors. An acceptable entry-level wine. Score 80. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins. Showing simple berry, cherry fruits on a somewhat overly acidic background. Drink from release. Score 80. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Dark garnet in color but lacking clarity, medium- to full-bodied, with skimpy black fruits hidden under a far too generous layer of sweetness. Drink up. Score 75. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Merlot, 2005: Garnet towards purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and raspberry and red currant fruits, a simple but pleasant entry-level wine. Drink now. Score 79. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese, 2003: Dark brick red, showing clearing at the rim and hinting of premature aging, with primarily berry fruits now somewhat buried under rising earthy aromas and flavors. Drink up. Score 77. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, Breisheit, 2004: With medicinal and iodine aromas, almost searing tannins and with a distinct alcoholic sting it is difficult to find either fruits or charm in this wine. Score 55. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram’s, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and hints of wood (the wine was aged in stainless steel with exposure to oak chips). Soft and round, with straightforward berry, cherry and currant fruits. Drink now. Score 83. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Medium-dark garnet towards purple in color, medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins and showing aromas and flavors of currants and spices. Past its peak. Drink up. Score 78. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman
Na'aman, Pink Floyd, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A simple but appealing rose, light- to medium-bodied, crisply dry with strawberry, raspberry and cassis aromas and flavors. Drink from release. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, Merlot, Deep Purple, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): As it's name implies, deep purple in color, but beyond that with little charm as medicinal and barnyard aromas and coarse tannins hide whatever fruits may be hiding here. Perhaps better with time. Tentative Score 72-74. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, King Crimson, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A medium-bodied, softly tannic bend of 75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot. Showing spicy wood, cherry and red currant aromas and flavors, those with an appealing light herbal undertone. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins and generous wood but those integrating and the wine now showing traditional blackcurrant, blackberry and briar aromas and flavors, those with hints of tobacco and roasted coffee in the background. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvigon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft but mouthcoating tannins, and natural acidity well in balance. On the nose and palate red berries, currants and orange peel, those supported nicely by spicy cedar and a light hint of herbaceousness. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark cherry red in color, showing a fascinating mix of blackberry, huckleberry, currant, black licorice and Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Still firm tannins need time. Best 2008-2010. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na’aman, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004:My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Medium to full-bodied, with chunky, country-style tannins and reflecting its 12 months in barriques with dusty and near-sweet cedar. On the nose and palate appealing blackberry and currant fruits, those with a light herbal overlay. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2004: A lightly oak aged blend of 75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot, with soft tannins integrated nicely and showing currant and berry fruits. Straightforward and without complexities but easy to drink. Drink up. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Na'aman, 50/50, 2004: Dark garnet, medium-bodied with chunky country-style tannins and perhaps too generous wood. On the nose and palate currant and cherry fruits. As during its youth marred somewhat by a light medicinal hint that fails to fade. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali Winery
Ramot Naftali, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet with orange reflections, medium- to full-bodied, with gentle wood influence and soft tannins nicely balanced. Look for aromas and flavors of dark plums and currants, those accompanied by grilled herbs and toasty notes. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Kerem Dishon, this garnet towards purple, medium- to full- bodied red shows soft tannins and generous berry, black cherry and currant fruits and, on the background hints of spices and earthiness that linger nicely. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali, Duet, 2005: A lightly oak-aged blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, (65% and 35% respectively). Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and hints of sweet cedar highlighting youthful berry, black cherry fruits. Not complex but very appealing. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvigon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins yielding slowly. Richly aromatic and with fine balance between black cherry, currant and wild berry fruits, dusty herbs, and a hint of green olives. Well focused. Best 2008-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Dark but somewhat cloudy garnet in color, with firm tannins that seem not to want to yield and generous oak influence that tends to hide the currant and berry fruits here. Drink now-2009. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium to full-bodied, reflecting its 18 months in French oak with generous wood but that in good balance with tannins and fruit. On the first attack, tobacco and espresso, those yielding nicely to aromas of ripe berries and currants. Drink now–2009. Score 87. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ramot Naftali, Barbera, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark cherry red, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle wood. On the nose and palate red berries, cherries and hints of spices, vanilla and minerals leading to a mouthfilling fruity finish. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ben Barak Winery
Ben Barak, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing spicy red plum, raspberry and currant aromas and flavors. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ben Barak, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, showing still firm tannins and dusty cedar but those yielding nicely to currant, blackberry and spices, all lingering nicely. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Sore 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Ben Barak, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft mouth coating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy wood. Somewhat acidic at this stage but on the nose and palate a fine array of currant, blackberry and wild cherry fruits, those supported nicely by herbal and vanilla hints. On the medium-long finish a hint of green olives. Best 2008-2010. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Sefad Winery (Tsfat ha Atika)
Sefad, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dominated by earthy, compost pile and barnyard aromas that make it impossible to find whatever fruits may be here. Score 50. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

Sefad, Cabernet Sauvigon, Reserved, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Marked by searing tannins, burning alcohol and aromas that call to mind the sewers of Paris. Score 50. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

Sefad, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Stale, with aromas of dirty barnyard flavors and stewed prunes. Score 50. (Tasted twice with consistent notes 17 Dec 2006)

 

Kadita
Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): This full-bodied, intense and concentrated wine shows deep, almost inky purple, with still firm tannins and spicy wood but those in fine balance with natural acidity and fruits. Opens with aromas and flavors of raspberries and minty chocolate, those yielding to blackcurrants and red plums and finally to a long fruity finish that hints of white chocolate. Best starting in 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Kadita, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark cherry red towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with soft, mouthcoating tannins and gentle wood influence, showing tempting red and black berries, cassis and just the right hint of herbaceousness. Long and generous. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely with spicy oak. On the nose and palate an array blackberry, currant and black cherry fruits, those matched handsomely by hints of roasted herbs, green olives and, on the long finish a hint of black licorice. Approachable on release but best from 2009. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Kadita, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A Merlot to make you walk away singing. Full-bodied, deep and aromatic, with generous black pepper highlighting cherry, currant, chocolate and light licorice aromas and flavors, all lingering very nicely indeed on the generous finish. Approachable on release but best 2008-2012. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Kadita, Cabernet-Merlot, 2004: Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, caressing tannins and ripe blackberry, plum, currant and herbal aromas and flavors on first attack, those yielding very nicely indeed to hints of coffee, tobacco and earthiness. Drink now-2009. A fascinating wine. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark enough to be thought of as mysterious, opening slowly on the nose and palate to reveal a wine that is firm and remarkably concentrated with a complex set of aromas and flavors, those including cassis, blackberries, anise, tobacco, and espresso coffee, all still tightly wound and needing time to integrate. Finishes with a unusual combination of super-firm tannins and an explosion of fruit on the palate. This one will be fascinating to follow. Drink from 2009. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Sifsaf Winery
Although the labels on the Sifsaf bottles state a given vintage year, the owner/winemaker states that because labels are expensive, he may at times use the same label for more than one year. It is thus impossible to know precisely what wine one is tasting or purchasing.

 

Sifsaf, Chardonnay, 2004: A white with medicinal, musty, pungent and unclean aromas and flavors that turn simultaneously sour and bitter on the finish. Score 50. K (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Sifsaf, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Truly bad. Musty, funky, bitter, with distinct iodine aromas and flavors that coat the mouth. Undrinkable. Score 50. K (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Sifsaf, Syrah, 2005: With odors of iodine and burning rubber and flavors of vinegar, this is an undrinkable wine. Score 50. K (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Sifsaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Medium-bodied but ponderous on the palate, with aromas of sawdust and dill and only skimpy dried currant fruits. Score 60. K (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)


Smadar Winery
Smadar, Merlot, 2004: A blend of 90% Merlot with 5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan. Garnet red, with generous chunky-style tannins opening to reveal blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits on a background of spicy oak. An appealing country-style wine. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 10% of Carignan. Dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied with generous tannins and wood, those opening to show spicy currant, and blackberry fruits. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Smadar, Carignan, 2004: Showing considerably better than at an earlier tasting. Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins and showing aromas of berries, black cherries and tobacco. Drink now-2008. Generous and moderately long. Score 85. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Smadar, Merlot, 2003: Dark cherry red in color, with firm, mouthcoating tannins and spicy wood, those yielding nicely to black fruits. Needs time in the glass to show its roundness. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Dark ruby towards garnet with its early firm tannins and generous wood now integrating nicely and showing appealing currant, wild berry and black cherry fruits and a light hint of toasted herbs that runs through. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Smadar, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied with soft but mouthcoating tannins to highlight appealing purple plum, cassis and blackberry fruits, those with an overlay of Oriental spices. Long and generous. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)

 

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep purple towards black, intense and concentrated, this full-bodied red shows still firm tannins and generous wood, those well balanced with fruits, spies and an appealing herbal overlay. On the nose and palate backberries, black currants and a hint of citrus peel together with vanilla, chocolate and bouquet garni aromas and flavors. Best starting in 2008. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 17 Dec 2006)