On Thursday, 4 Jan 2007 I left Tel Aviv quite early in the morning to visit three wineries in the Judean Hills – Tzora, Flam and Agur. The espresso coffee at Tzora was not at all special but the café botz that followed was just fine; I did not get coffee at Flam but we did share a pleasant pizza after the tasting; and the macchineto coffee at Agur was just fine. More important, the company was warm and welcoming, the discussions lively and the tasting most rewarding.

My warm thanks to Eran Pik of Tzora (I was only sorry that Ronnie James was indisposed and could not take part in the tasting with us), to Flam Fils et Pere, and to Shuki Yashuv for their courtesies and for the tastings. My tasting notes follow. Note please that several of the barrel tastings were of wines destined for blending and those are therefore not given scores.

Rogov

TZORA

2006 Barrel Tastings

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gvat Hachalukim, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from component parts, part aging in oak, part in stainless steel vats, but already showing dark garnet in color, highly aromatic and with generous fruit. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely, with a moderate hand on the oak and a rich array of red and black berries, black currants and a very appealing array of spices. Finishes nicely with hints of chocolate and mint. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet towards royal purple in color, with firm tannins integrating nicely with wood and fruits. Showing generous raspberry, red currant and a youthful cranberry hint, with the tannins coating the mouth nicely and opening to reveal earthy minerals and, on the long finish gentle hints of spicy wood and freshly picked mushrooms. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from component parts, this dark royal purple, appealingly herbal and earthy, medium- to full-bodied wine is already showing generous cherry, berry and cassis fruits, those finishing with hints of coffee and tobacco. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark purple towards inky black, intensely tannic and with concentrated black fruits and with a tantalizing near-sweetness, all of which show fine balance and structure. Look as well for the continued development of Mediterranean herbs, tobacco and licorice. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet red with orange and purple reflections, medium- to full-bodied with generous but near-sweet soft tannins integrating nicely and already opening to show generous red fruits and an appealing spicy overlay. Tannins and steely minerals rise nicely on the finish to make this a "Merlot with an attitude" or, if you prefer, a Merlot with a distinct personality. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Made from extremely low yield vines, this dark, full-bodied and concentrated red shows soft, mouthcoating tannins, spicy wood and hints of smoked meat and earthiness, those opening o reveal generous red fruits. Intense but somehow gentle and despite its extreme youth, showing elegance. Best from 2008 or 2009. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

2005 Barrel Tastings

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing blackberry, currant and raspberry fruits, those supported nicely by appealing hints of lightly honeyed chewing tobacco and red licorice. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzroa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gvat Hachalukim, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and generous spicy wood. Opens to show generous red fruits but someone one dimensional at this stage. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Merlot, Gvat Hachalukim, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Ruby towards purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft, perhaps even flabby tannins and an unwanted hint of bitterness that interferes with currant, berry and plum fruits Perhaps better with time. Tentative Score 83-85. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Tzora, Merlot, Shoresh, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to show berry, cherry and orange peel aromas and flavors leading to a moderately-long finish. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

 One Advance Tasting

Tzora, Gewurztraminer Dessert Wine, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Light, sweet and silky, almost calling to mind an ice wine, with distinct honeyed pineapple and pear fruits and a hint of kumquat marmalade on the finish. A low 8% alcohol content and good balancing acidity come in to make the wine both lively and tempting. Drink from release-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

FLAM

2006 Barrel Tastings

Flam, Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, aromatic and concentrated, with dusty wood on first attack, that yielding to earthy, lightly meaty aromas and flavors, those opening to reveal plum, red berry and cassis aromas and flavors along with hints of spices. Delicious and inviting but because the wine is destined for blending into the Superiore wine, no score. (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins ingegrating nicely with wood, natural acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate layer after layer of spicy black cherries, currants, raspberries, bay leaf and sweet spices all coming together nicely in a long and generous finish. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Light shining golden in color, intentionally unoaked to highlight the natural acidity and fruit flavors, this nicely aromatic, medium-bodied blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Chardonnay opens with aromas and flavors of grapefruit and citrus flowers, those going to vibrant stony minerals and lime. Ripe, vibrant and lively, with hint of passion fruit and freshly cut hay on the finish Drink from release-2009. Score 91. (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

2005 Barrel Tastings

Flam, Petit Verdot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Almost impenetrably deep purple in color, remarkably aromatic, with firm, almost sharp tannins needing time to settle down. Generous and unique, with dark chocolate and floral overtones on a background of blackcurrants, plums and blackberries. Destined for blending but that somewhat of a shame because this might prove an intriguing and excellent varietal release, destined for roundness and elegance with proper aging. Because the wine is destined for blending, no score. (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Superiore, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A blend this year of 82% Syrah and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. After 12 months in oak, dark ruby in color, medium- to full-bodied, with fine grained tannins and lively cherry, raspberry and cassis fruits, those supported nicely by hints of herbs, cedar and spring flowers. Drink from release-2010. Score 90. (Tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting 18 months in oak with soft, mouthcoating tannins and spicy wood. Look for a tempting light earthiness here supporting blackberries, currants, and a touch of spice that weaves its way through the wine and then lingers nicely on a long, elegant finish. Drink from release-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, full-bodied, with once chewy tannins now integrating nicely but still showing generous wood and quite enough mouthcoating tannins. On the nose and palate a complex and elegant array of blackcurrant, black cherry, anise and Mediterranean herbs and on the long finish hints of vanilla and sage. Firm but yielding nicely and lingering long and comfortably on the palate. Tentative Score 92-94. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Current Releases Re-Tasted

Each of the following wines was re-tasted today. Although I did not have my most recent tasting notes (from November 2006) with me at this tasting, when arriving home I could not help but notice that all of my tasting notes held firmly.

Flam, Classico, 2005: A dark ruby towards royal purple, medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal parts. Aged in barriques for six months and showing a hint of spicy oak and near-sweet tannins, those yielding to blackberry and currant fruits. A surprisingly high 14.5% alcohol here but that in no way interferes with the soft, round pleasures of the wine. Drink now-2009. Score 90. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Superiore, 2004: A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon showing toasty oak, smoke and generous but soft tannins, those matched nicely by spicy plum, berry and black cherry fruits. A long, round and elegantly near-sweet finish. Drink now–2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2004: Perhaps somewhat of an oxymoron, but this is indeed an "elegant blockbuster". Made entirely from Merlot grapes, full bodied and tannic, but don't let that hold you back because this one needs time for its elements to come fully together. On first attack spicy wood reflecting 16 months in oak, that opening slowly to reveal firm, mouth coating tannins and finally that giving way to show a tempting array of currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those backed up nicely by spices and on the long finish a hint of crème Anglaise. Approachable now but best from 2008-2012. Score 92. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 2007)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Deep garnet towards black in color, full-bodied, with once almost searing tannins now integrating nicely. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% of Merlot, reflecting its 18 months in barriques with spicy wood and tannins in fine balance with natural acidity and generous currant, plum, blackberry fruits. On the long finish hints of mint and spices. Drink now-2011. Score 91. (Re-tasted 4 Jan 2007)