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>> Rogov's Tastes » Tzora - September 2006

Friday, 15 Sep 2006 was devoted to a visit to several of the vineyards of Kibbutz Tzora and then to the Tzora winery for a brief but interesting tasting. Not a small motive of my visit was to meet new winemaker Eran Pick who is now working with Ronnie James. Pick studied at UC Davis and then garnered experience in California and several other places.

Set on Kibbutz Tzora at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains and overlooking the Soreq Valley, this kibbutz-owned winery released its first wines, 1,500 bottles, from the 1993 vintage. Production is moving in the direction of 80-90,000 bottles annually and the well-tended vineyards of the kibbutz, those at a variety of altitudes and on sometimes vastly differing soil types, also supply grapes to other wineries.

Ronnie James, who has been the winemaker since the winery’s inception, releases varietal wines as well as blends and has succeeded as very few winemakers do to consistently represent a specific Mediterranean terroir in his wines.. As to the winery’s labels, it has been difficult to divide the wines into specific series or to know from year to year precisely which wines will be released in which series. I was told today that the winery will be working towards eliminating whatever "label confusion" may have developed. Starting with the releases of the 2002 vintage the wines of Tzora have been kosher.

My thanks to Ronnie, Eran and Dudu, the winery's mashgiach (kashrut supervisor) for a very pleasant and interesting visit and set of re-tastings. Most interesting perhaps was that each of the wines I tasted today, those from the Ilan series, was showing at least somewhat better than in the past. My notes follow.

Best
Rogov

 

Tzora, Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2003: Dark garnet in color, with soft tannins integrating nicely, a round and soft wine with aromas and flavors of berries, currants and purple plums supported by light herbal and spicy overlays and just the right hint of oak. Generous if only moderately long. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K

 

Tzora, Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2001: Deep garnet towards royal purple, this medium- to full-bodied blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon shows soft tannins and wood, both integrated nicely to show an appealing array of currant and berry fruits, those on a background of Mediterranean herbs, vanilla and Oriental spices. On the long finish a generous hint of espresso coffee. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 89.

 

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, 2003: Showing richer and more complex than at earlier tastings. Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with its once firm tannins now integrating nicely and revealing hints of smoky oak and a clean herbal-earthiness that supports generous blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruits. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K

 

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, 2001: Almost as if waking from a long sleep (more technically perhaps a dumb period), this wine has spring back to life and better than ever before. Having matured gracefully, its tannins now soft and round, the wood showing as a gentle sweet-and spicy overlay and highlighting a generous mouthful of blackberry, currant and blueberry aromas and flavors. On the long finish look for tempting herbal and tobacco overlays. Drinking beautifully now. Score 90.

 

Tzora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, 2000: Fully mature now, its tannins round and caressing, the generous herbaceousness and wood that once typified it now comfortably in the background and showing a tempting array of ripe black fruits. Lingers nicely on the palate. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88.

Tzora, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Ilan, Misty Hills, 2003: A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet, now showing dark ruby towards garnet in color, with its once chunky tannins now settling down nicely to reveal spicy oak and generous currant, cassis and plum fruits. Generous and moderately long. Drinking nicely now but possibly best in another year or so and until 2009. Score 88. K

 

Tzora, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Ilan, Misty Hills, 2001: An oak-aged blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet in color, showing appealing herbal and plum, cassis and light herbal aromas and flavors. Marred somewhat by overly generous acidity. Drink now. Score 87.

Tzora, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvigon, Ilan, Misty Hills, 2000: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, full-bodied, with now soft tannins. Sweet cedar and spices dominate on first attack but those yielding nicely to currant, berry and plum fruits. Long and generous. Drink now. Score 88.