Yesterday, my afternoon was devoted to visiting the Vitkin Winery, there in the company of winemaker Assaf Paz and owners Doron and Sharona Belogolovsky to do barrel, advance and several re-tastings.

Established by Doron and Sharona Belogolovsky on Moshav Kfar Vitkin on the central Coastal Plain, this winery released its first wines from the 2002 vintage. Winemaker Assaf Paz relies on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Viognier, French Colombard, Johannisberg Riesling, Gewuztraminer and Muscat grapes from vintners in the Jerusalem hills as well as several other parts of the country.

First releases in 2002 were 2,000 bottles and the winery is currently producing 25,000 – 30,000 bottles annually. My tasting notes follow but to sum up my reactions in a single phrase this is"a small winery building itself intelligently,

Best
Rogov

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2004: Made entirely from Johannisberg Riesling grapes, this may be the first Israeli white to show the oily, floral, kerosene-like aromas of fine Alsace or Rhine Rieslings. Gold in color, medium bodied, with good balancing acidity to keep it crisp, refreshing and dry and showing appealing citrus, melon and summer fruits. Drinking nicely now-2008. Score 88. (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin Blanc, 2004: A blend of 45% each Viognier and French Colombard together with 10% Gewurztraminer, each fermented separately before blending. Light golden straw in color, with fine balance between fruits, acidity and a hint of freshly cut grass. Very flowery on the nose on first attack but that receding and revealing generous citrus and peaches, those complemented by a hint of freshly cut grass and, on the moderately long finish a hint of hay. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin Blanc, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A medium-bodied blend of Viognier, French Colombard and Gewurztraminer (45%, 40% and 15% respectively), with part of the Viognier fermented in new 300 liter French oak casks. On the appealing floral nose and palate orange, orange blossoms and tropical fruits, those matched nicely by hints of litchis, rose petals and tapioca. Good hints here of both complexity and elegance. Drink from release. Score 87. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin Pink, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Not labeling this as a rose or a blush wine was a wise move, for if one had to describe the color of this crisply dry blend of Syrah, Carignan, Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc it would have to be as somewhere between strawberry-red and shocking pink. However odd may seem the blend, the result is splendid, light- to medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, aromas and flavors of strawberries and raspberries, those with light peppery overtones, all of which linger nicely on the palate. A fun wine with just the right level of intensity to add complexity and interest. Drink from release. Score 87. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Classic, 2004: Aged in barriques for 10 months, this medium-bodied, well-balanced, softly tannic blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan shows appealing red berries and cherries on first attack, those turning to currants, spring flowers and spices that linger nicely. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Pinot Noir, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, remarkably fresh for its embryonic stage, with soft tannins that even now show a harmonious blending with raspberry, blackberry and cherry fruits, those on a background of persimmons, hazelnuts and even a hint of cola. Going for elegance and not power. Drinkable from release but with the potential for medium-term cellaring. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Carignan, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Showing better now than at an earlier tasting, the once too generous wood now settling down nicely as predicted. Dark garnet towards royal purple now showing full-bodied and with good balance between wood, soft tannins and fruits. Earthy and spicy, showing very appealing plum black cherry and cassis, those opening on the finish to hints of chocolate, Mediterranean herbs and mint, all of which linger nicely. Score 89. (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, firmly tannic, muscular and already showing generous spicy oak and, from the nose to the long finish, a tempting overlay of Madagascar green peppercorns. On the nose and palate opening with ripe cherries and herbs, those yielding to layers of currant, black cherry, plum and wild berry fruit, and finally finishing with a long herbal note. Using the usual stereotypes, a masculine wine but one destined simultaneously for power and elegance. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Perhaps the best effort yet from this still young winery. Deep, almost impenetrable royal purple in color, this blnd of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, some aged in new oak, some in older for 16 months, showing fine balance between wood, moderately-firm tannins and vegetal-fruity characteristics. On first attack pepper and spicy wood but that followed quickly by well proportioned blackcurrants, purple plum and blackberry fruits, all of that supported nicely by hints of cloves, Oriental spices and on the long and mouthfilling finish freshly picked Mediterranean herbs. Best 2008-2011. Score 91. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): At this stage a monster, nearly impenetrably dark in its purple-black color, already taking on deep spices from the wood and with tannins firm enough that you feel you could almost drive stakes into the wine. No fear though, for given time in the glass the wine gives a hint of what waits in the future, opening to reveal generous layers of black and red fruits, spices and an overlay of deep herbaceousness. Needs a good deal of time to integrate. Best starting only in 2008. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Another potentially "best yet" from Vitkin. Deep, dark and intense, reflecting its 16 months in partly new French oak, with fine balance between firm tannins sweet cedar and spicy oak, this concentrated wine opens slowly in the glass but when it does it explodes with blackberry, plum, mineral, meaty and herbal aromas and flavors. Long, tannic and with a gentle hint of bitter-sweet chocolate on the finish, an elegant wine, one that calls to mind some of those of American winemaker Helen Turley. Best 2007-2010, possibly longer. Score 91. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Late Harvest Riesling, 2004: With about 20% of the grapes in this wine affected by botrytis, this just lightly funky, bronzed-golden colored wine shows unabashed near-honeyed sweetness, and on the nose and palate dried apricots, tropical fruits and wild spring flowers (buttercups come to mind). Perhaps lacking a bit in acidity but given a bit of time the wine will also show baked apple, caramel and spices. Best starting in 2007. Score 86. (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2006)

Vitkin, Red Dessert Wine, n.v. (Advance Tasting) Thankfully not just another local imitation of either a Tawny or a Ruby Port but something unique enough that the wine has yet to receive a name. My suggestion – "The Red Thing". A medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied blend of Petite Sirah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, reinforced with white alcohol to 17% strength, and on the nose candied fruits, strawberries, exotic spices, and chocolate, its generous sweetness balanced nicely by good natural acidity. Tempting now but best from 2007. Score 89. (Tasted 10 Mar 2006)