The history of Israel’s wine industry mirrors that of the country itself. You therefore do not need to be a ‘wine buff’ for a visit to wineries to be worthwhile.  Indeed it is possible to get a taste of history and sample the pioneering spirit from ‘Palestine’ of the first aliyah in the 1880’s to the Israel of the 21^st century, without so much as a sip of wine!

However if your interest is vinous rather than historical, Israel provides you with the opportunity to visit both the largest winery in the Eastern Mediterranean & Middle East (Carmel) and some of the finest (Golan Heights, Castel, etc etc) in the region. Israel can also boast a large range of boutique wineries and a wide range of micro climates from the snow covered Mount Hermon in the north, to the sandy desert in the south. It is extraordinary for such a small country to offer so great a variety – all the more for the tourist to enjoy & sample. For the first time a tourist to Israel can visit & learn about the country through the prism of its wine industry.

Northern Tour – Golan Heights, Upper Galilee & Lower Galilee Wine Regions

“The Upper Galilee and Golan Heights are Israel’s finest wine growing regions.”

It is best to start this tour of the north in the southern Golan. It is therefore recommended that you stay overnight in a hotel in Tiberias or in a guest house on the Golan Heights.

The Golan Heights & Upper Galilee are unarguably Israel’s finest wine growing regions, producing Israel’s finest wines.

Begin your tour in the southern Golan Heights overlooking the Sea of Galilee by visiting Chateau Golan, (tel. 04 6600026), situated at Moshav Eliad on Route 98, though you will need to book a tour in advance. It is an example of one of the lavish new boutique wineries built in Israel in the last five years. There is a strong connection between art & wine at this winery, and your visit may even coincide with an exhibition of a local Israeli artist.

As you travel north, the altitude will steadily rise. At the small town of Katzrin, higher up in the central Golan Heights, you have the opportunity to visit the Golan Heights Winery, (tel. 04 6968420), a typical Californian style winery. This is the third largest winery in Israel, and they are the pioneers that brought about most of the positive changes in Israeli wine. Modern, hospitable and very successful, the Golan Heights Winery offers a tour and tasting. They will also explain the procedure for producing champagne method sparkling wine. The wine shop offers the full range of Yarden, Gamla & Golan wines and sometimes some interesting bin ends.

Within a short distance of the winery you can visit the Talmudic village, to see reconstruction of a lifestyle from 2,000 years ago. The importance of wine & olive oil to the economy is apparent. Afterwards visit the Golan Archaeological Museum in Katzrin. Here there is an excellent sound to light presentation describing Gamla – the Massada of the north.

Then drive slightly further north to Moshav Kidmat Zvi to visit Bazelet ha Golan (tel. 04 6827223).. This is a small, unpretentious boutique winery, producing only Cabernet Sauvignon wines. The quality of the wines produced here will certainly surprise you.

Continue to drive north observing the increasing altitude, and cooler climate. Look out for the Golan Heights Winery’s meteorological stations in the vineyards, the oak tree in the middle of Ein Zivan vineyard, the view to Kuneitra in Syria from Mount Bental, the vineyard inside the old crater of an extinct volcano, El Rom and the ‘Valley of Tears’. Lunch at a Druse village is recommended, in the shadow of the snow covered Mount Hermon.

When you come off the Golan, drive north on Route 90, then follow the 886 and 899 into the Upper Galilee.  As you drive you will see the vineyards of Emek Kadesh – the Kadesh Valley. Driving along the border to Kibbutz Yiron, it should be appreciated that the fine Lebanese vineyards in the Bekaa Valley are less than 40 miles away. Here are Israel’s most beautiful vineyards. Plunging peaks and stony ridges make up this scenic region. At Kibbutz Yiron, lies the Galil Mountain Winery (tel. 04 6868740). It is a pleasant surprise to see a commercial winery in Israel, which is not situated in an industrial estate. The winery is modern, and the wines represent superb value. If you are traveling with children, Kibbutz Yiron also have a lake & animals – a perfect place for a family picnic.

Drive south on the 886, and you will come to Dalton Winery, (tel. 04 6987683), situated in the industrial area of the same name. Next door you will see Kerem Ben Zimra, one of the Upper Galilee’s largest vineyards. On the same estate, you will be able to see Carmel’s new winery, which overlooks the Hula Valley.

When you leave the Upper Galilee, take Route 65 from the Golani Junction, and you will arrive at Kfar Tabor – in the Lower Galilee. This is a village in the shadow of Mount Tabor, which has an important history for both Jews & Christians. Tabor Winery, (tel. 04 6760444), has a welcoming visitor’s center and arguably the finest Sauvignon Blanc in the country. If it is too much wine for children, they may prefer the Almond & Marzipan Museum nearby.

To enjoy the region and the wineries to the full, this should really be a two day tour. If so, there would be time to fit in visits to Zeta (04 6413000) or Jahshan (04 678127/202) – two of Israel’s best olive oil producers in the Galilee. Both could be visited on the way to Tabor. The Galilee also produces Israel’s finest olive oil.

Good restaurants to choose on the way include: Auberge Shulamit (04 6931485) or Babayit Shel Rafa (04 6936192) in Rosh Pina, or Havat Bat Ya’ar (04 6921788), at Mitzpe Amuka, near Safed. Ein Kamonim (tel. 04 6989894), on Route 85, would be a good place to sample local cheeses.

Mount Carmel – Sharon Plain Tour

“The Shomron area around Zichron Ya’acov & Binyamina is Israel’s largest wine growing region.”

In this tour it is possible to visit wineries founded in the 1890’s, 1950’s, 1980’s and after 2000. Each period represents significant developments in the history of the Israel wine industry. This is the largest wine growing region in Israel and the area where the first vineyards where planted in the 1880’s.

First stop should ideally be Amphorae Vineyard (tel. 09 9704301 – ring for an appointment). This is situated at Makura Ranch, north of Fureidis, just off the old Route 4. The winery is an example of the new style of winery founded since the year 2000. Next door it will be possible to visit the Makura Olive Press, (tel. 04 984 0580), which produces organic olive oil from their own estate.

Go to Zichron Ya’acov, and you visit the heart of Israel’s biggest wine growing region.  Zichron Ya’acov is named after Baron James Jacob de Rothschild, who bought Chateau Lafite for the Rothschild family. Visit first Carmel’s Zichron Ya’acov Wine Cellars, (tel. 04 6290977), the second largest winery in Israel. It was built in 1892 by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Baron James’ son, with large underground cellars. The visitor’s center – a great place for a snack – is situated in the restored house where the winemaker used to live. Here there is an unique opportunity to see a large commercial winery, a boutique winery and an experimental micro-winery all in one setting – a combination of the old world & new world.

The beautiful surrounding area is also worth a visit to soak up the atmosphere of pre-state Israel. Aaronson House (of ‘Nili’ fame) and The Ramat Ha’Nadiv Gardens, honoring Baron Edmond de Rothschild and the site of his grave are also worth a visit.

The ‘Derech Ha’ Yayin’ (Wine Route) Road in the center of Zichron is ideal for shopping and for buying handcrafted souveniers. If you get tired you can stop for a coffee & home made quiche at the Tishbi wine shop in the center of Zichron.

Alternatively, you can stop for a glass of wine at Shuni Fortress. If your visit coincides with the many classical & jazz concerts held at the site, you can sip a glass of wine, overlooking the vineyards, whilst enjoying the music.

Tishbi Winery,(04 6290280), is a short distance away towards Binyamina. The town, Binyamina, is named after the Hebrew name of Baron Edmond de Rothschild. Tishbi is a family of vineyard growers, who first planted grapes in the 1880’s and they decided to build their own charming winery in 1985. Here you can taste wine underneath the pergola and enjoy local cheeses. They also have an attractive wine shop full of local produce. Be sure to see the Alambic Still for producing high quality brandy, the only one of its type in Israel.

Binyamina Winery,(04 6388643), offers the opportunity to see a winery founded soon after the birth of Israel, in the early 1950’s. The tour offers a taste of the past and don’t miss the barrel room. You will see the building originally built by James de Rothschild as a perfume factory. It is worthwhile to visit The Cave, site of a boutique wine, but you will need to book in advance via the visitor’s center of Binyamina Winery.

At Kibbutz Nachsholim, on the Mediterranean coast, you will find the site of the bottle making factory that was built to support the fledging wine industry towards then end of the 19^th century. The glass factory did not succeed, today it is a Nautical Museum, but some of the original bottles made may be seen in a small display.

On the way back to Tel Aviv take route 4 and visit the Recanati Winery, (tel. 04 6222288) situated at Emek Hefer – a medium sized winery, with the winemaking practices of a boutique. Founded in 2000, it is another example of the new quality wineries in Israel today.

Boutique wineries on the route back to Tel Aviv – if you are able to book in advance – include:  Margalit, (fax 04 6262058) owned by arguably Israel’s most famous boutique winemaker, just south of Hadera; Vitkin Winery (tel. 09 8663505), between Hadera & Netanya, and Alexander Winery (tel. 09 8822956) near Netanya.

Restaurants recommended include Helena (04 6100108) in the old Caesaria Port; Haneshika (04 6390133) & Picciotto, (tel. 04 6290646), both in Zichron Ya’acov.

Gush Dan / Central Coastal Plain Tour

“Gush Dan is the area of the greatest wine consumption & most developed wine culture in Israel, and it includes Israel’s two largest wine companies.”

Start the tour by visiting Ha’aretz Museum in Ramat Aviv. Here you will see a number of wine presses from different periods of history, to remind you of the ancient history of winemaking in the region.

Next stop, visit Derech Ha’Yayin (Wine Route). This is Israel’s number one wine store, with a cellar and room for tastings & wine classes. They have the finest range of Israeli wines on offer, plus a full range of wine accessories. Here you will find some older vintages not available elsewhere.

Travel towards Rishon Le Zion on the Jaffa to Jerusalem road (Route 44), and you will pass the Mikve Israel Agricultural School, near Holon. Founded in 1870, the school is still operational, but unfortunately the winery is not. The winery building still stands, but it is in a poor state of repair.  However, this was the first winery in Israel to use European varieties. A small room in the winery’s western wing was used for storing arms in the days of the British Mandate.

When you arrive in Rishon Le Zion , off Route 4, you will find Carmel’s Rishon Le Zion Wine Cellars (tel. 03 9488898)  – the largest winery in Israel. It was founded by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, whose family owned it until 1957. The winery building, built in 1890, is the oldest industrial building in Israel still in use. The first telephone & electricity used in Israel was here, and the winery will no doubt tell you that David Ben Gurion, Israel’s first Prime Minister, was one of its workers. Look out for the deep underground cellars, the 100 year old brandy cellar with its wooden roof, and the fascinating mural in the old metal workshop, depicting the history of Rishon, the first modern settlement.

Walk through the gardens opposite the winery, and you will come to the Water Tower., Baron Rothschild’s first investment to help the settlers, and the Rishon Le Zion Museum, which combine to give you a flavor of the pioneering days.

A short drive, in between the roads with the grand names of “Rothschild” and “Yitzhak Rabin” and you will come across an ancient wine press ‘Ganot Gatot’ – in the center of Rishon Le Zion!

Travel south, through Rehovot, home to the Israel Wine Institute, and you will arrive at Kibbutz Hulda, where Israel’s second largest winery, Barkan Wine Cellars (tel. 03 9355858) may be found. Barkan is a modern, state of the art winery, with Israel’s largest vineyard directly next to the winery. One third of Barkan’s needs come from this vineyard – it is rare in Israel for vineyards to be close to the winery.

Closeby boutique wineries include Zauberman (tel. 08 8594680), Meishar (tel.08 8594759), & Carmei Yosef-Bravdo (tel. 08 9286098). Worthwhile visiting with an appointment.

Alternatively, you can continue south to visit Cad Bnei Darom (tel. 08 8515548), a high quality producer of olive oil & gourmet products.

Sorek Winery (tel. 08 9340542) is home to a small estate winery at Moshav Tal Shahar. This is the place to arrange a lecture on winemaking – the country’s main winemaking courses are held here. Their wines are also good too!

Pick up the link to route 6 & travel north, The Benhaim Winery (tel. 03 6762656) is an option if you come off towards Ramat Gan. If not, continue north to Kibbutz Eyal, on Route 6, and there you will find Saslove Winery (tel. 09 7492697), one of Israel’s finest boutiques. Owner Barry Saslove is also one of Israel’s most famous wine educators, so it a good place for a tasting and explanation.

As far as restaurants are concerned, if you travel south to Cad Bnei Darom, then Idi Restaurant in Ashdod (tel. 08 852 4313) is recommended. If you return to Tel Aviv, go to Ish Anavim (tel.03 5180533) in Jaffa, Israel’s leading wine venue for interesting tastings or Carmela B’Nahala in Tel Aviv, a restaurant with a wine list consisting 100% of Israeli wines. Other recommended restaurants include Manta Ray (tel. 03 5174773) & Raphael (tel. 03 5226464).

An alternative venue for a more entertaining evening, is to return to Ma’odon Ha’ Yekev, the winery club at Rishon Le Zion Winery.

Judean Lowlands/ Judean Foothills/ Judean Hills Tour

“The Judean wine region is the most developed wine route in Israel and has the greatest & fastest growing concentration of wineries.”

The region of Judea is the most organized in the country. They have their own wine route and market the region as a group. However most of  the wineries are quite small, without established visitors centers, so it is recommended to book visits in advance.

However, here are a wide range of wineries to choose from, including some of the very best in the country.

The wine connoisseur will start from Route 1, the Tel Aviv – Jerusalem Highway and turn off at the Sha’ar Ha Gay turn off towards Beit Shemesh on Route 38. The first visit – near the Eshtahol junction – should be to the Flam Winery (tel. 02 9929924/5). This is one of the finest boutique wineries in Israel – arguably the best still producing non kosher wines.

Continue along Route 38, the next stop is to follow the turning to to Ramat Raziel. Here lies Domaine du Castel, (tel.02 5342249) one of Israel’s most picturesque wineries, which also happens to be in the eyes of many, Israel’s finest winery. Look out for the meticulously kept vineyard in front of the winery, the deep attractive cellar and the winery building itself – not bad for what was once a chicken coop!

Return to & crossover Route 38 at the Shimshon junction, and you come to Kibbutz Harel. There, amidst the vineyards, is the building where Yitzak Rabin commanded the Harel Brigade in 1948. Today this same building is one of Israel’s best new estate wineries: Clos de Gat (fax 08 9993350). The ‘gat’ – an old wine press situated in the vineyards, dates from the pre Roman period.

Return to Route 38 towards Beit Shemesh and next stop is a kibbutz. The winery at Kibbutz Tzora – Tzora Vineyards (02 9908261) is one of the most interesting wineries in the country. Most of the grapes come from surrounding vineyards, and it is a genuine kibbutz affair with the kibbutz members running the winery. Their wines & their own olive oil are sold in the winery shop.

Back to Route 38 until you pick up Route 375. There at Halamed Hei, you will find Ella Valley Vineyards – a brand new, ambitious commercial winery. Despite the nice visitors center, most interesting here is to ask for a tour of the vineyards – they are immaculate.

Continue on the road until the turn off for Bar Giora. Here you will find an idiosyncratic, domestic winery with an even more idiosyncratic winemaker. The Sea Horse Winery (tel. 02 5709834) is owned by ex film maker Ze’ev Dunie. This is the place to taste Israeli Zinfandel for the first time!

However there are many wineries to choose from depending on your interests. Christian pilgrims have the option of visiting three winery monasteries in the area: Domaine de Latroun (tel. 08 9220065); Mony Winery (tel. 02 9916629) at Dir Rafat Monastery; and Cremisan (02 9911449), at Beit Jamal. Latroun, a Trappist Monastery, is more French in style, Cremisan, a Salesian  Monastery, more Italian. The Israeli Arab Artoul family own Mony winery, which is named after their deceased son. They also produce excellent olive oil.

For those seeking kosher wineries, they have the following to choose from: Tzora, Mony, Ella Valley, which have already been mentioned. To these may be added:     Hamasrek Winery (02 5701759) at Beit Meir, where you will enjoy meeting the enthusiastic Greengrass brothers and Gush Etzion Winery (02 9934592), near the town of Efrat. Gush Etzion Winery has attractive winery & visitors center.

Ultra orthodox Jews will be keen to visit the three Mishor Adomim wineries: Hacormim Winery (tel. 02 5352255), Arza Winery (tel. 02 5351442) and Zion Winery (tel.02 5352540). These wineries all stem from the Schorr family, founders of Israel’s first recorded winery in 1848. They specialize in this market. Nearer & more accessible, might be Efrat Winery (tel. 02 5346022) – situated at the entrance to Jerusalem at Motza. The Teperberg story will fascinate if you are lucky enough to meet members of the family. These are wineries with roots in Jerusalem – worthwhile to combine the winery visits with a tour of the Old City & modern Jerusalem.

If you do finish up in Jerusalem, a pilgrimage to Avi Ben Wine Store is recommended. This was one of Israel’s pioneering wine stores, situated in Nahalat Shiva – also a good place for purchasing home made gifts.

Recommended restaurants in Jerusalem: Fink’s Bar (02 6234523 for the central European kitchen; Arcadia (02 6249138) for fine dining; Darna (02 6245406) for Morrocan flavor or Philadelphia (02 6289770) for a taste of the Middle East.

Negev Tour

“The pioneering vineyards in the Negev fulfill David Ben Gurion’s dream of making the desert bloom.”

On the way south on Route 40, first stop is Ramim Winery (054 4608080) situated at Moshav Shahar. It is worth trying their ‘Desert Ice’ range of dessert wines.

Next is La Terra Promessa Winery (08 6849093) – also on the same moshav. The Italian born owner produces good quality red wines.

Slightly further south, but still in the north western part of the Negev, lies Galai Winery (08 9933713). This is a small, newish boutique winery situated at Moshav Nir Akiva.

One of the best olive oils in the country, is produced at Kibbutz Revivim in the highlands of the central Negev. Halutza (08 6562536/8) is able to illustrate that world class olive oil can even be produced in the desert.

Make your way towards Arad on Route 31. At the Tel Arad turn off, is Yatir Winery (08 9959090). Here it is worth tasting the wines already ranked as some of the best in the country. Take time to see the Ramat Arad vineyard – at 750 dunams, one of the largest in the country – next to the winery. Visit Tel Arad,  the unique archaeological site with evidence of 3,000 years of history. Afterwards drive 10 minutes to Yatir Forest, Israel’s largest planted forest, in the southern Judean Hills. Here amidst all the trees you will find Yatir’s vineyards and an old wine press dating from 2,000 years ago. This is the perfect place for a hike or a picnic.

If you visit the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth and Massada, scene of a heroic story, you will even find something of relevance to your wine tour. On Massada, you will find a wild grape vine growing – perhaps the lowest vine growing anywhere in the world?

Return to Route 40 towards Eilat on Route 40. At Sde Boker, you will be able to taste the wine & visit the vineyard of Sde Boker Winery (050 7579212). Afterwards you can visit Ben Gurion’s Hut to see how simply he lived and his graveside.

If you continue south towards Eilat, you will be surprised to see the green vineyards of Mitzpe Ramon amid the sea of sand & desert brush as the perfect illustration of making the desert bloom.

Continue still further and you will arrive at Neot Smadar Winery (08 6358111) – the furthest south winery in the country, which produces wine from organically grown grapes.

Assuming you end up in Eilat, recommended restaurants include: The Last Refuge (tel. 08 6372437) for fish; Pago Pago (tel. 08 6376660) for its setting on a barge; Au Bistro (08 6374333) for French cuisine. Alternatively, the main hotels (Isrotel, Dan or Moriah) have good restaurants close to the beach.

September 2005