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>> Rogov's Tastes » Yatir - June 2005

I found me at Yatir Mountain and in the Negev, visiting Yatir winery with a small group of colleagues and re-tasting three wines.

This is my third tasting of the reds, my last tasting several months after bottling, on 29 Nov 2004. As always, when doing multiple tastings of wines from their almost embryonic state to their infancy and then as they first begin to "come of age", it is fascinating to follow the nuances that develop between tastings. Today represented my second tasting of the white, that wine scheduled to be released in the next month or two. The two reds will be appearing on the shelves within the next few days and Israeli prices are given. The price of the white has not yet been announced. My notes for the three wines maintain an overall consistency between tastings. The reds however, have developed especially well and comfortably earn an additional point or two in their scores.

One point of special interest. I have noticed in this and other tastings and re-tastings in recent months that more than expected of the better wines of 2002 seem to have escaped what I have called "the 2002 curse". In focusing on precisely which wines these are it became apparent that (a) without exception they came from very low yield vineyards; and (b) each was under the hand of an especially talented winemaker. All of which nicely demonstrates the validity of famed winemaker Andre Tchelistscheff's adage to the effect:"In a good year, don't worry about the wine as God has made the wine for you. In a bad year,pray to God that your winemaker knows how to make wine"

Best,
Rogov

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Oaked for a short time, this bright straw-colored wine maintains remarkable freshness together with well enunciated aromas of citrus, tropical fruits and light grassy-herbaceousness. Medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, a tantalizing hint of the oak in which it developed for several months and a long and complex finish. Drink now-2007. Score 90. (Re-tasted 1 Jun2005)

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz, 2002: A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot with 10% of Shiraz, this inky purple towards black, medium to full-bodied wine spent one year in new and used oak casks. Showing good balance between smoky wood, generous but soft tannins, plum and currant fruits, black pepper and a very appealing overlay of near-sweet herbaceousness. Opens beautifully in the glass and a long, satisfying finish here. Drink now-2008. NIS 95. Score 90. K

Yatir, Ya'ar Yatir, 2002: Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, aged in 33% newand 67% used oak, this dark garnet toward purple, full-bodied wine is now showing still firm tannins and gentle and well-integrated smoky oak and sweet cedar aromas, those coming together very nicely with aromas and flavors of ripe currant and purple plum fruits as well as generous hints of chocolate and mint. Approchable and even enjoyable now but best 2006-2010. NIS 165. Score 92. K