On Monday, 29 November 2004, I visited Yatir Winery in order to do advance and barrel samplings. I also wanted to re-taste several of the earlier released wines of the winery, those in my own tasting room. My notes from my visit and my at-home tastings follow.

Before those, however, to return to a bit of discussion that was held in my forum and that I have heard in other places to the effect that the Yatir wines may be somewhat overoaked. In addition to the tastings during my recent visit, I have now tasted and re-tasted each of the wines already released at least three times. As to the general charge of over-oaking, I can only respond by saying "nonsense" (I am tempted to use another word, that one referring at least in part to the droppings of a male in the bovine species but I won't do that as I'm sure to catch hell for using that particular word).

It is true that when these wines are still very young they may well reflect what some may interpret as a heavy hand with oak but (and I have noted this in all of my previous tasting notes) what we are actually seeing in those wines is a short-term phenomenon, the intrinsic balance of the wines belying that they are truly overoaked. It is true too that winemaker Eran Goldwasser studied and trained in Australia but one of the things that he seems to have learned well there is to avoid the over-oakng of his own wines, relying judiciously more on one and two year old barrels than on new ones. If there was a single wine that might some might have justifiably perceived as somewhat heavy on the oak that was the 2003 Sauvignon Blanc. As to the others, I'll stand firmly with my notes.

Best,

Rogov

Ya’ar Yatir Forest, 2002: Containing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this dark garnet toward purple, full-bodied, wine is now showing gentle and well-integrated smoky oak and sweet cedar aromas those coming together very nicely with aromas and flavors of ripe currant and purple plum fruits and generous hints of chocolate and mint. Still firm tannins need time to settle down but good balance and structure bode very well for the future of the wine. Best 2006-2010. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 29 Nov 2004)

Ya’ar Yatir Forest, 2001: As youthful on the nose and palate as it is in its dark ruby toward purple color, this medium to full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot is already showing good integration between soft tannins and oak, and rich, still quite forward aromas and flavors of currants, wild berries and cherries. Spicy oak and plenty of minerals here, those integrating nicely and yielding a luxurious and elegant wine. Drink now-2009. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 3 Dec 2004)

Yatir, Second Label (Final Name Not Yet Decided), 2002: A blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 10% of Shiraz added, this deep purple towards black, medium- to full-bodied wine shows good balance between smoky wood, generous but soft tannins, plum and currant fruits, and a very appealing overlay of near-sweet herbaceousness. Best from release-2008. Score 89. K (Tasted 29 Nov 2004)

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): With intentionally short-term exposure to oak this bright straw-colored wine maintains remarkable freshness together with well enunciated aromas of citrus, tropical fruits and light herbaceousness. Medium-bodied, with crisp acidity and a long and complex finish. Best from release-2007. Score 89-91. K (Tasted 29 Nov 2004)

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2003: My earlier note holds firmly: Light gold in color, with orange and green tints, this well balanced white was aged sur lie. Full bodied, with traditional Sauvignon Blanc aromas and flavors of fresh-mown grass and herbs matched nicely by quince and pear fruits as well hints of pepper, walnut and vanilla, all leading up to a long mouth-filling finish. Somewhat oaky but shows grace and harmony. Drink now-2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 3 Dec 2004)

At the winery I also did other few barrel tastings of 2003 and 2004 wines but because those are still waiting final assemblages (final blends if one prefers), no formal notes but a few observations.

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Two tastings, in one case of wine made from grapes from Moshav Ma'or and the other from Moshav Beit Yatir, both showing excellent promise, the first firm, distinctly tannic, with cassis, citrus peel and blackberry aromas and flavors, the second softer, more aromatic, showing more of a direction to raspberries and red currants. A potentially elegant and long-lived blend.

Merlot, 2003: Also two tastings of grapes from different vineyards, the first plumy, tannic and with sharp edges; the first creamy and softer, more highly aromatic with raspberry and red currant fruits; both appealingly spicy but with different spices in each (in the first case Oriental spices, in the second pepper and nutmeg). Anything but internationalized in style!

Shiraz ,2004: From the Ramat Arad vineyards, exposed to intentionally short skin contact, and already showing traditional Shiraz traits of pluminess, minerality, earthiness. Soft, near-sweet tannins and to this point excellent acidity.

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Two wines from the same vineyard harvested at the same time, butone produced more-or-less traditionally, the second with long skin contact and extended maceration, the first rich and acidic, the second creamier, with more supple tannins and perhaps more important, the second more brooding, deeper and more complex.

Merlot, 2004: As noted immediately above, grapes from the same vineyard harvested at the same time and each treated to a different vinification process, the first somewhat sharper but with rich plum, berry and black cherry fruits, the second dryer on the palate, sweeter on the nose and more complex. Neither will stand well on its own but a blend promises great elegance.