As far as this wine critic is concerned, "that time of the year" is now approaching – that time being the period starting towards the end of the harvest and then taking a short break to wait until the wines have completed their malolactic fermentation, for it is during this period and until early spring that I physically visit some 150+ wineries in Israel. Some of those visits/tastings take a full day, on other days one can visit five, six or even more small wineries.

I opened my own visiting year with visits to five of the wineries in the Yoav-Yehuda area – the area located in the Jerusalem Hills and the Ella Valley. Following are my tasting notes from my visit the other day. As will be seen, surprises awaited – some quite positive others not quite so positive. My thanks to those at the wineries that received me and to Arnon Geva whose good company I enjoyed as he accompanied me during my visits.

Best
Rogov

Agur
Agur, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Kessem, 2005: This unfiltered medium-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and about 5% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot was developed in barriques for 12 months, and is showing gentle overlays of spices and a hint of vanilla, with soft tannins and generous blackberry, red currant and red plums, all leading to a somewhat acidic but lingering finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 77, Score 87. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Agur, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2005: Dark royal-purple, medim- to full-bodied, with generous spicy oak integrating with chewy tannins and fruits. A blend of 85% Cabernet sauvignon with equal parts of Petit Verdot and Merlot, oak-aged for 18 months, the wine is concentrated, showing currant and plum fruits along with hints of cedar, green olives and sage, with the tannins rising on the persistent finish. Drink now–2011. NIS 100. Score 87. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Agur, Special Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A medium- to full-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, with firm tannins and generously spicy wood integrating nicely to show appealing blackberry, black cherry and sweet herbs on the nose and palate. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim
Srigim, Cabernet Franc, Barrique, 2005:A dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied blend of 855 Cabernet Franc and 7.5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Oak aged for 14 months, showing black fruits on an appealing earthy-mineral background. Tannins and a hint of unwanted acidity rise on the finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 105. Score 84. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauivgnon, 2005: Dark royal purple, a medium-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Aged in barriques for 14 months, showing spicy and dusty oak, firm tannins and a few blackberry and currant fruits. Somewhat alcoholic on the nose. Drink now. NIS 100. Score 82. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Medium-bodied, dark garnet in color, with soft tannins but faulted because its fruits are overlaid with a persistent medicinal aroma. Drink up. NIS 70. Score 78. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Petit Verdot, 2005: Showing far better than at barrel tastings. Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, this oak aged blend of 85% Petit Verdot and 7.5% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc shows fine balance between fruits, spicy wood and acidity. Aromatic, long and mouthfilling.. Drink now-2009. NIS 70. Score 86. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrique, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with good balance between spicy and vanilla-rich wood, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate wild berries, currants and an appealing earthy-mineral overlay. Rich and round but somewhat short. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrique, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep, dark and at this stage still searingly tannic but opening to reveal an aromatic nose and flavors of black fruits, dark chocolate and mint, all lingering nicely. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with aromatic oak and chocolate on the nose and showing forward black fruits. Round, soft and caressing. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Srigim, Petit Verdot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, bold and tannic, with aromas and flavors of blackberries, licorice and sweet cedar, all on a background of dusty wood. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna
Ben Hanna, Petit Verdot, La Mariee, 2005: Reflecting 12 months in French oak with gently mouth-coating tannins and hints of spices and vanilla, this medium- to full-bodied wine shows ripe, rich and supple. Dark purple, with generous cherry and currant fruits and on the long finish a tantalizing hint of green olives. Best 2008-2011. NIS 110. Score 89. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shalem, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (80%, 15% and 5% respectively), aged in French oak for 21 months and showing soft, round and aromatic. On the nose and palate a tempting array of raspberry, red currant and red plum fruits, those on a background of herbs and mint. Long and generous. Best 2008-2011. Score 89. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna, Cabernet Franc, La Mariee, 2005: Broad, dense and concentrated, yet caressing. Opens with generous raspberries and dried currants highlighted by gentle black and red chili-peppers, and moves on to plum and floral aromas and flavors. Soft tannins rise on the long, spicy and fruit-rich finish. Best yet from the winery. Best 2008-2011.NIS 110. Score 91. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna, Mediterraneo, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Deep, brooding garnet in color, full-bodied, with still firm tannins and generous spicy wood waiting to settle down but showing fine balance and simply needing a bit of time. A blend of Grenache, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc (50%, 33%, 12% and 5% respectively), aged in French oak for 22 months, opening to show a generous mouthful of black cherry, dried raspberries, eucalyptus and cinnamon. Drink now-2011. Score 91. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna, Shalem, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, this oak-aged blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot ad 10% Cabernet Sauvignon shows medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gently spicy wood. On the nose and palate blackberry, currant and blueberries, those on a background of espresso coffee and chocolate. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna, Petit Verdot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards royal purple, this yet unblended oak-aged red shows. Plush and supple, with currat, blackberry, cola, vanilla and black pepper aromas and flavors, those in fine balance with spicy wood and nicely integrating tannins, all leading to a near-sweet finish. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Ben Hanna, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with velvety smooth tannins and appealing floral-scented blueberry and currant fruits on a gentle background of spicy wood and just the barest hint of Brett to add charm. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Soreq
Soreq, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2002: Dark garnet, taking on a brownish brick-red color,
full-bodied and reflecting its 24 months in oak with still firm tannins. On the nose still fresh aromas of
black fruits but on the palate showing first hints of oxidation. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted with 3 Oct 2007)

Soreq, Merlot, Special Reserve, 2002: Dark brick-red in color, full-bodied and austere, with currant, berry and leathery aromas and flavors that finish with drying tannins and a medicinal hint creeping in. Drink up Score 84. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Soreq, Merlot, Kerem Yosef, 2005: Blended with 14% of Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in oak for 18 months, this dark garnet full-bodied red shows a narrow band of blackberry and game aromas and flavors. Somewhat awkward. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 83. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Soreq, Merlot, Kerem Tal Shachar, 2005: Made entirely from Merlot grapes, showing soft tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to reveal generous cedary blackberry and wild berries, those on a background of sage and minerals. Drink now-2009. Score 89. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Soreq, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tal Shachar, 2006: Dark garnet towards purple in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins that need time to integrate but already showing appealing cassis, berry and black cherry fruits leading to a long minty finish. Best from release–2010. Score 86. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Mony
Mony, Muscat, Dessert Wine, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Golden yellow in color, with floral and citrus aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, but somewhat clumsy with its generous sweetness lacking balancing acidity. Drink from release. Tentative Score 80-82. K (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Mony, Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, with firm tannins. Austere, with only a narrow band of wild berry fruits and a too-skimpy hint of spices. Drink from release. Tentative Score 80-82 K. (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Mony, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Ruby towards garnet , medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing berry and black cherry fruits. Simple but round. An acceptable quaffer. Drink from release. Tentative Score 80-82. K (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Mony, Merlot, 2006: (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with soft, mouthcoating tannins and an array of berry, cherry and citrus peel aromas and flavors. One dimensional but an acceptable quaffer. Tentative Score 82-84. K (Tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Money, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Lightly oaked, this deep ruby wine is medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing red fruits. Not complex but appealing. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Mony, Merlot, 2005: Ruby-red, light to medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a few currant and berry fruits. Drink up. Score 80. K (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Mony, Merlot, 2003: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins. Opens to reveal berry, black cherry and currant flavors along with spicy oak and light herbal overlays. Somewhat past its peak.Drink up. Score 82. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)

Money, Shiraz, Reserve, 2003: Deep cherry towards garnet in color, with firm tannins, generous spicy wood and vanilla. The once black cherry-plum personality now showing far too earthy and leathery. Well past its peak. Drink up. Score 76.

Mony, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003: Medium-bodied, with gentle oak and soft tannins. Once ripe currant and wild berry flavors now showing first signs of oxidation. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 3 Oct 2007)