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>> Rogov's Tastes » Zemora - March 2006

Set in a facility in Moshav Beit Zayit in the Jerusalem Mountains, winemaker Baruch Yosef, formerly owner-winemaker of the Nachal Prat winery, released Zemora's first wines from the 2000 vintage. Grapes are drawn largely from the Jerusalem Mountain area and include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Viognier and Chardonnay, some of which are being raised organically. Production for 2003 was 7,000 bottles and between 35,000 and 40,000 bottles are being released from the 2005 and 2006 vintages. Starting with the 2004 vintage, the wines have been kosher.

Rogov

Zemora, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but already showing medium- to full-body, soft tannins, hints of vanilla and spices from the wood in which it is aging and appealing blueberry and currant fruits. Soft, round and with fine balance. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with just 3% of Merlot, this generously oak-aged, medium- bodied and softly tannic wine shows distinct red fruits (raspberries, red currants and red plums), those with just enough spiciness to add complexity. Drink from release. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Note: The winery's 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon has been released in two versions, one referred to below as Version 1 having been made from grapes from the center of the country, and another, Version 2 made from grapes from the Northern Galilee. As will be seen in my tasting notes, the wines are considerably different. If there is a problem with this it is that there is no indication on the labels of which wine you will find in any given bottle. (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Version 1, 2003: Blended with 15% of Merlot, this oak-aged wine shows overall good balance, medium-bodied and soft tannins.. Look for plum, blackcurrant, orange peel and light herbal aromas and flavors.Drink now-2008. Score 85. (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2006)
Zemora, Cabernet Sauvignon, Version 2, 2003: Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins that yield slowly but comfortably to reveal blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, those supported nicely by spicy oak and an appealing herbal-earthy finish. Drink now-2009. Score 87. (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Shiraz, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A fully organic wine, oak-aged and relying on wild yeasts. Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with intense currant, stewed plum, black cherry and an appealing light beefy overlay. Somewhat on the acidic side. Drink from release. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Cabernet Franc, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark in color, full-bodied, with chewy tannins and smoky oak opening to reveal plum and black cherry notes, those supported by leather and cedar, those leading to vanilla and spices on the moderately long finish. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Cabernet Franc, 2002: Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet in color, with a distinct country-style coarseness that set off by berry, cherry and plum fruits. Ripe and mouthfilling. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Petit Verdot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark purple in color, opening with a floral nose and showing spicy oak and soft tannins in fine balance with a core of plum, blueberry, currant fruits. Makes up for its lack of complexity with a long and harmonious finish. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Castra, 2003: Almost impenetrably dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins integrating nicely. A well balanced blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot, shows up-front cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors, those complemented by spicy, smokey cedar. Drinking nicely now but best from 2007-2010. Score 90. (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Cabernet Sauvingon-Cabernet Franc, 2003: A generously oak-aged blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Cabernet Franc, showing chunky tannins, heavy spices and tannins but those balanced nicely by appealing currant, berry and black cherry fruits. Not complex or long but a good quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Chardonnay, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Destined for 6 – 8 months of oak-aging and with a deep golden color, this medium-bodied white offers up peach, melon and citrus aromas and flavors. Not complex but appealing. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)

Zemora, Viognier, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Golden-straw in color, medium-bodied, with fresh citrus, guava and pear fruits matched nicely by a silky texture. On the long finish hints of honey and figs. Drink from release. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2006)